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Thread: Shoto About to Get Real

  1. #1

    Default Shoto About to Get Real

    So I've finalized the design for my shoto...that is if you all think it'll work. (Ain't jumping the gun like last time )
    SaberBuilder_render2.jpg

    I'm going for the removable battery/sound pack that is on the YouTube channel since from my calculations the pommel (which has 1.36" IL) and the 4" connector which equals the 5" needed for the V6 Speaker mount will hold the pack.
    My biggest question is will the short AV switch work with the 2" double female and a Cree LED work being so close (or perhaps I should go with a 3") ? Also what resistor will I need for the Royal Blue Cree-LED? the slotted middle isn't for a crystal chamber but a "fusion coil" window.

    I think that's all my main questions right now, Thank You

    PS: How does one work the LED AV switch on a NB (just solder it with the Cree-LED in circuit?)

  2. #2

    Default

    It's gonna be a tight fit with that switch there. You'll need to use the v4 heat sink, or it won't fit at all.

    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...e-to-Ohm-s-Law will teach you how to figure out your resistor value.

    The accent LED in the switch can be wired parallel with the main blade, and it'll need its own resistor. The DynaOhm will do the job just fine, or you can calculate one yourself.

    You say "shoto", but that saber is just shy of 11" long. It looks like a standard saber length to me. You can still put a short blade in it if you like though.
    We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings.

    http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz for the lazy man's resistor calculator!
    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...e-to-Ohm-s-Law for getting resistor values the right way!

  3. #3

    Default

    Yeah I was going to do a 28" or 26" blade in it my other hilt is about 15" long so it'll feel and look shorter. I'll be sure to adjust my list accordingly thanks SS
    Last edited by DarthScohin; 03-27-2015 at 09:57 AM.

  4. #4

    Default

    If the accent ring LED is connected in parallel with the blade the switch will ignite with the blade correct? Or will it be on when power is brought to the hilt?

  5. #5

    Default

    It will come on when the blade comes on.
    TCSS MODERATOR
    All n00bs READ these first (PLEASE)!!!:
    1. Forum Guidelines
    2. FJK’s “Down and Dirty” guide to Ohm’s Law

    "Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
    My email: fjk_tcss@yahoo.com

  6. #6

    Default

    So if my calculations are correct I have a 3.7v battery and a Royal blue Cree meaning my resistor needs to be 3 ohms and 3W ?

    3.7-2.7/1= 2.7 (3 Ohms)
    2.7*1^2= 2.7 (3 Watts)

  7. #7

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by DarthScohin View Post
    So if my calculations are correct I have a 3.7v battery and a Royal blue Cree meaning my resistor needs to be 3 ohms and 3W ?

    3.7-2.7/1= 2.7 (3 Ohms)
    2.7*1^2= 2.7 (3 Watts)
    Your Vf for the LED is wrong. That resistor is way too high.
    TCSS MODERATOR
    All n00bs READ these first (PLEASE)!!!:
    1. Forum Guidelines
    2. FJK’s “Down and Dirty” guide to Ohm’s Law

    "Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
    My email: fjk_tcss@yahoo.com

  8. #8

    Default

    Oh I cant do math the other calculation I got was .29 ohms and 2.7 W

  9. #9

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by DarthScohin View Post
    Oh I cant do math the other calculation I got was .29 ohms and 2.7 W
    You might want to try again.
    TCSS MODERATOR
    All n00bs READ these first (PLEASE)!!!:
    1. Forum Guidelines
    2. FJK’s “Down and Dirty” guide to Ohm’s Law

    "Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
    My email: fjk_tcss@yahoo.com

  10. #10

    Default

    So I'm getting .29 and .29 which would mean 1 Ohm and 1 Watt is that right? Also I have the Trustfire 2400 going into this one that should be enough power right?

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