First Timer, Post-Build How-Could-I-Have-Done-Better Issues

[bunger]

I built my first saber over the summer and now that I have a few months of playing around with the saber, I am uncovering some design/implementation issues with my build.

THE BUILD SPECIFICS:
MHS for everything except the emitter ( I know, I know )

Prizm v4 Sound

12mm AV Purple Switch
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/12...itch-P921.aspx

SPST Momentary Tactile Switch
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/SP...itch-P641.aspx

Recharge Port in the Pommel with Pommel insert 6
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MP...le-6-P263.aspx

THE ISSUES THAT HAVE PRESENTED THEMSELVES IN THE PAST FEW MONTHS:
The SPST momentary tactile switch will sometimes become unseated and slip inside the hilt. When then happens, I take the hilt apart ( remove choke, and emitter ) and firmly press it back into place. It will usually stay that way for a few weeks or so and then slip out again. I know it is sort of press-mounted, but is there a secondary method to keep it in place?

The 12mm AV switch will slowly become loose over time. It is mounted in a recessed hole on the hilt. I generally take the hilt apart ( remove choke and emitter ) and use some needle nose pliers to try and tighten the nut back up. Because the hilt is curved, it never really fully tightens. How do builders generally accommodate these switches?

I will understand if builders ignore this last question as it is bc the emitter is not MHS: because it isn't, I have mounted the heatsink between the choke and the main body as it won't fit between the choke and emitter. There is a little bit of space between the heatsink and the choke, so I have used a small rubber O-Ring to help snug it in. The downside is that unscrewing/screwing back in the choke causes the heat sink to turn, which causes the wires to turn. I have snapped a wire from its solder joint twice so far and am not sure if there is a creative solution at this point.

Thanks in advance for any help you can provide!

[Greenie]

Hello Bunger, for the tact switch, I'd probably go with a dab of hot glue. The best solution for the AV switch might be to use the 12mm bezel on the inside of the hilt so you can tighten the nut to the flat part. Not sure about the heatsink, maybe pics might help.

Greenie

[jbkuma]

You might also try a spot of thread lock (go for the temporary/removable type) on the AV. For the tactile, you could also try making a spring clip from a piece of PVC drain tubing, I believe there is a tutorial for this.

[bunger]

Thanks guys!!