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Thread: New guy, excited to start building

  1. #1

    Default New guy, excited to start building

    Hey folks!

    I've been lurking these forums and other for about a month now. I'm a mechanical engineering student with about 1800000000 hobbies (I counted). Recently I've been trying knifemaking with some success, but I'm ALWAYS trying new things.

    I've always been a huge Star Wars fan, so when I discovered that there were LED lightsabers with sound that you could actually duel with, I was thrilled. When I discovered that I could make my own...well, you get the idea.

    I sold some knives I recently made to help get some funds for my new lightsaber hobby. My plan is to order a Vader's Vault combat class saber so I'll have a high quality saber to reference, and then I'm going to dive head-first into an MHS build.


    I'm super excited to see the MHSv2 series coming out, and I'm going to try to base my first saber build on that. The problem is, the longer I look around these forums, the more complicated my ideas for a first saber build are getting...

    Currently, I'm planning on 3d printing a custom chassis for a Nano Biscotte and an 18650. With that, I'm probably going to use a Trirebel RGB wired parallel with slide switches so I can obtain 6 different colors (only one or two leds will ever be used at a time). I would reaaally like to use an RGBW X4 LED so I can wire the W for FOC while still using the other colors for blending. There will be a 2W speaker of course...but that should be easy to figure out.

    Of course, I can't REALLY design well for this until I see what's available for MHSv2..but I have a lot of ideas floating around. I've done some ridiculously simple sautering for robotics and stuff, but I've never actually done my own wiring like this before so it should be fun...but with a few weeks till MHSv2 comes out I have time to do my research, right?

    I'm excited to be a member here, this looks like a great place to learn!

  2. #2

    Default

    Welcome to the Forums. Sounds like you have a lot of reading ahead of you.
    TCSS MODERATOR
    All n00bs READ these first (PLEASE)!!!:
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    "Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
    My email: fjk_tcss@yahoo.com

  3. #3
    Jedi Padawan Starwinder's Avatar
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    Default

    Welcome to the forum! This is definitely a great place to learn. It sounds like you have some pretty ambitious plans for your first build so be sure to take the time to read up on everything. And have fun!
    --------------------------Cadence--------------------------

  4. #4

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    I'm building my first saber as well, but I've designed mine with v1 parts. I'd recommend looking into the petit crouton with R.I.C.E. if you want to do color blending. Little more expensive, but easier to access and change colors with a RGBW LED.

  5. #5

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    Welcome and have fun learning
    I'm looking forward what you'll come up with ^^
    Clicky Sig =>


  6. #6
    Sith Adept dgdve's Avatar
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    Wow that's a lot of hobbies

    ___

    First.. Welcome to the forums and to your first steps into the greater world of saber building!
    ___

    Next I would challenge you to build your saber in the MHS v1 system.. The v2 system is based around a smaller ID (internal diameter) and as such the installs will be in two parts.. (Either VERY very simple & basic, like 2wires and a switch.. Or epic cram fu impossible.. Rumble motors.. Crystal chambers.. Kitchen sink with bay window.. Walk in closet all with a 1" ID)

    Trying to fit more! into less is a skill known as = Cram-fu

    The saber hobby can be expensive and frustrating so I personally never recommend anyone to attempt any "cram-fu" for a 1st (or 2nd, or 3rd) build.

    It's just not worth it if something goes wrong.. Or if your 3/4 into a design and have to change things because your having fitment issues..

    So train your cram fu by watching others or checking out old builds and logs (don't waste good money or break stuff actually doing it... When your ready to do it.. It just happens)

    With that my recommendation is to use the MHSv1 because 1.25 ID is far smaller then you think and it's the standard OD (of which the MHSv2 is made from 1.50 OD stock so.. It's not that much skinnier yet..)

    Parts and plans are still in motion so let's use what we have that we KNOW works and fits.. The MHSv1 builder.. Design a solid saber for yourself and plan the install from there.

    This will allow you to expand your build and use the various switches (or UPgrade to the PC3 + RICE)... That will allow you to do all the color changes you'd like using a tri rebel from the store.

    Don't use the x2 or x4.. They are lame by the data sheet (go go read it..) only thing good about them is the hype machine (you mentioned VV.. Go on and PM them for led recommendations but they will say use the tri rebel or Cree brand and NOT the x2/x4s as well)

    ___ NOT to rain on your parade, but your most likely NOT going to fit the PC3.. A 7.4v pack.. Dual switch set up (needed for te added functions of te pc3).. Full size speaker and 3d chassis into an MHSv2 saber (did you see Rob/Madcows install video yet?... The v2 is tiny bro... T I N Y)

    So please just think of it like I'm trying to steer you towards where I would go..

    MHS v1 has plenty of epic designs and v2 is NOT that much smaller.. If your an adult MHSv1 was designed for you and is the same OD as many of the movie sabers.

    Also I'd use the PC3 for the added color mixing possibilities as well as the extra features like blaster blocks or lock up.. (with a RICE port and plug you can have nearly any color you like and any color Flash on clash as well).. Where would you put that on the v2 system? (A big ole switch box sticking off the side maybe?)

    Yeah so you can see how you'll run out of space fast.. pc3 needs x2 switches (those take space).. Runs best on 7.4v pack (so prefers 2 cells).. Takes more wires (which take up space)..

    Then you have to plan for your ports.. Recharge port, Rice port.. uSD access.. All must be planned and all take space

    You don't want to set yourself up to fail.. Do your first build as simple as possible and with as much extra space as possible.. Finish it and be proud!

    Later you'll have so much knowledge gained from your first build you'll be ready for a serious upgrade and your personal cram fu level will rise from there. (A first build is also a time when you may be purchasing some additional tooling.. So keep your first build simple so you can make these additional purchase without a headache)

    A nice set of calipers.. A decent soldering station.. Some jewelers hand files.. A set of helping hands for your soldering and a set of table pipe clamps (soft jaws) for the drill press.. A Dremel tool is nearly mandatory for shroud work. (Various other junk tools and that's until you get to the big boy tools like lathes and mills... So you see it's best to plan a new tool purchase with each build.. That keeps it interesting and keeps raising the bar of your available tooling and abilities)

    That way you'll have an EPIC saber built by your own hands and know everything that went I to it.. Have a sweet new tool and be looking forward toward your next tool (and an upgrade to match!)..

    That's what I would do (and believe me.. A pc3 build for your 1st is complicated enough.. Seriously give that manual a read and check YouTube videos for what type of features you get over the standard Nano build) so I'm not trying to take anything away from your build in any way as far as features or brightness or what not.. I'm really just trying to help you start a little earlier and use the MHS system where I personally know you can fit all the above into..

    No lie in excited too.. The MHS v2 is gonna be awesome! (But is quite simply gonna put some builds out of reach due to space constraints.. Math is math my brother)

    Sure things change in the future.. But for now that's my 2cents

    ____

    Hehe you got a lot of hobbies I got a lot of words.. Go figure (hope it helps!)
    Quote Originally Posted by Gin Malinko View Post
    just an added note on this.
    I vote dgdve as the site's motivational speaker. haha
    "Yes Lord Vader, and I too have a gift... for you.."



    "There is no good or evil, no black or white.. There is only.. Perspective"

  7. #7

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    Yep. I'm gonna go ahead and agree with most everything dgdve said. If you don't already have an extensive toolset, be prepared to spend as much on new tools as you do on saber parts for your first saber.
    We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings.

    http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz for the lazy man's resistor calculator!
    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...e-to-Ohm-s-Law for getting resistor values the right way!

  8. #8

    Default

    Thanks for the support everyone!

    Couple things:

    I did have a few ideas for a MHS v1 saber, but so far my favorite design was using the long choke ( http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MH...Long-P525.aspx ) along with a 4 or 5 inch extension to house the electronics. Of course, that choke has even less room (looks like about 3/4"?) so I'd be doing some cramfu anyway. Also, I sort of wanted a saber that would be similar in size to the VV I planned on getting, so that coupled with the cram-fu I might have been doing anyway made me sway towards the MHS v2. I did see Madcow's video and was taking a lot of notes on it...and that simple saber he made looked sweet! Also, I want my saber to be real sturdy so I can do some fairly liberal dueling with it. I had also read that thinner sabers were more comfortable for spins and duelling...Those are some of the reasons I wanted to go for the MHS v2, but if you guys are really pushing for the MHS v1 for a first build, I'll certainly put more consideration on it. Like I said, I had some ideas for a MHS v1 build.

    As for the PCv3, there were a couple reasons I wanted to stay away from that. One, it IS bigger, and I knew from the start I'd never cram that in a smaller hilt. Secondly, as you said, the PC does have a lot more features. With the Nano Biscotte all I really need is a momentary switch and I'm good. I'll still have swing sounds, multiple colors, and flash on clash...no need for extra bells and whistles on my first build right? If I added a recharge port, I'd make it internal since I'd have to remove part of the saber for the switches anyway. This means I'd have less holes to worry about machining, and less switches to hold in place... So while I am being pretty ambitious, I really was trying to keep it relatively simple. Cost is an issue too, but not as much of one...this isn't a cheap hobby I've seen and I've come to terms with that... I also like the idea of using a single 18650. Lastly, I figured I'd wait for the new Prizm soundboard to come out and see if Plecter Labs would sell that to the public. It looks like it has all the best PC v3 features and it's smaller, so I didn't want to jump the gun on a PCv3 build yet. If only I could buy a crystal shard....

    My plan for the internals, one way or another is to have one part of the chassis anchored well within the saber. A large portion of the saber will come off, leaving the chassis almost completely exposed, yet still held steady. This will give me access to everything I need without having to pull a chassis in and out and worry about twisting and pulling wires every time I need to get to the switches. I've seen a couple saber builds like this and I really like the idea.

    As for tooling, I have a drill press, calipers, grinder, rotary tool, etc from my other hobbies so I'm good there. The only thing I need is a sautering station and a helping hand, which I figured I'd need someday anyway (can never have to many tools right?). I have a couple simple projects laying around that I never got to that I'll practice sautering with first.

    Thank you for the heads up on the X4! I know to be wary about most products from some of the folks involved...but for some reason I must have fallen for it on the LEDs. Would I be ok with the LedEngin LZ4? I was going to wire my switches similar to this build:
    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...ber-with-NB-v1
    The difference is that all 3 of the color LEDs would have their own switch, and then the remaining white die would be setup for FOC. Are there any problems I might run into with that? With a power extender for FOC and only running one or two color LEDs at a time I figured I wouldn't push the current limits on the Nano Biscotte...but I haven't really sat down and done the math on that yet. When I'm ready I will post a full wiring diagram to see if you guys agree with it. I like to think I'm pretty good at designing things...but I trust the members here right now more than I trust me. I'll probably have to resistor every led (not just red) to not push current limits, right? I still try to get at least 700mA te each led in use, I think. How much current does a 2W speaker draw?

    Lastly! I'm still a college student so I'm not made of money... After buying a VV and one MHS saber I probably won't have a whole lot of cash to spare for more sabers... That said lately I've been strongly considering not getting the VV and just building two MHS sabers. The only reason I wanted a VV was to have a good solid saber to compare quality to, since I've never actually held one yet. Their sabers look awesome anyway.

    I'm still going to wait for MHS v2, at least to see what the options are. That said, I'll still plan and design an MHSv1 build that way I'll have something to fall back on that I'll be more sure about. I could always save the v2 build for my 2nd saber; there will be more options available by then anyway. I'll also stay away from X4 LEDs, thanks!

    Thanks agian for the support and suggestions everyone! I'm about a month or two out from even starting on this, but I'm going to be doing a lot of research and design during the wait. I really appreciate everyone's suggestions.

  9. #9

    Default

    Well, I'm not going to comment too much on all of this. I'll only say that while those LEDEngins are a possibility, they are notoriously power hungry. Also you *can* run Greens, Blues and Whites at 1A. The speaker's draw is nominal for our purposes.

    Also, while the V1 and V2 sounds like a massive size difference, it really isn't. It's essentially 9/64" difference or .15", that's all.

    The VV sabers are good, well constructed sabers. I've personally played with several of them and have tried them out. They're fine.

    As you probably know by now, the Crystal Shards are for PL affiliates only. Mainly, the NB does the same thing, minus a feature or two.
    TCSS MODERATOR
    All n00bs READ these first (PLEASE)!!!:
    1. Forum Guidelines
    2. FJK’s “Down and Dirty” guide to Ohm’s Law

    "Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
    My email: fjk_tcss@yahoo.com

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