Hey everyone. Just out of curiosity, is anyone familiar with this person's saber work and their quality?
http://www.etsy.com/shop/Holocron?ref=l2-shop-info-name
Hey everyone. Just out of curiosity, is anyone familiar with this person's saber work and their quality?
http://www.etsy.com/shop/Holocron?ref=l2-shop-info-name
Yeah, I'm familiar with him (most old timers are)... Those are not things you want to deal with, and I'll leave it there.
TCSS MODERATOR
All n00bs READ these first (PLEASE)!!!:
1. Forum Guidelines
2. FJK’s “Down and Dirty” guide to Ohm’s Law
"Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
My email: fjk_tcss@yahoo.com
TCSS MODERATOR
All n00bs READ these first (PLEASE)!!!:
1. Forum Guidelines
2. FJK’s “Down and Dirty” guide to Ohm’s Law
"Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
My email: fjk_tcss@yahoo.com
TCSS MODERATOR
All n00bs READ these first (PLEASE)!!!:
1. Forum Guidelines
2. FJK’s “Down and Dirty” guide to Ohm’s Law
"Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
My email: fjk_tcss@yahoo.com
Solid aluminum bar = 10... Wet paper bag = 0
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TCSS = "Threaded" high quality parts made to fit like building blocks (MHS), or even some custom options with the MHS blank's (saber durability rating =
The hilts pictured above are overlapping pipes held together with nothing more then a few set screw's..... (durability rating = 1)
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Good luck with your build (You'll be very very surprised at what you can accomplish with MHS).. And when it comes to sabers it's not a good look if your saber kinda wobbles.. Or just flex back and forth in the middle as you swing it... No matter how awesome it looks that's just not cool
Stick to Tcss my friend.. Tim has true honor which in the end is worth 10 of whatever the other guys "claim" to have.
Setscrews if you are lucky...I have one of his early sabers and some overlapping parts didn't have setscrews but were glued...ok e if you are looking for a display ONLY saber which I made that one into but NOT suitable for dueling. And later there were MANY people in this hobby who had a 'bad experience' with that maker which us 'old timers' have not forgotten but which is not suitable to discuss here.
People here aren't ONLY being loyal to Strydur because he is a great guy with sterling business ethics and this is his forum when we recommend MHS instead. There is a reason that most of the professional sabersmiths in this hobby use TCSS MHS parts, entirely unrelated to personalities or politics. And that is quite simply the QUALITY of TCSS parts which are simply the best production parts in this hobby. They are the 'gold standard' against which all others are measured. Even the top pro sabersmiths with lathes, mills or CNC capability of their own often use TCSS parts as a basis for custom modification because they know the quality of TCSS parts won't let them down. You will not go wrong choosing to build sabers out of the same best-quality parts the pros use. That's not 'hype' its plain fact.
"You pays your money and you takes your chance" - it is your right to make your decision of course. Best of luck with it and MTFBWY.
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