It does have the + on it, I guess the - is implied. I actually never noticed that it says in/out. Maybe with my eyesight I just thought "out" was a -!
Type: Posts; User: jbkuma
It does have the + on it, I guess the - is implied. I actually never noticed that it says in/out. Maybe with my eyesight I just thought "out" was a -!
When you are wiring things that are labeled, you can generally assume + should be connected toward the + of the power source and - to -, that's the purpose of those labels.
The question here about your LED, not full circuit (which are in series, not parallel). There are 3 LEDs, how are they wired?
It would be helpful if you could draw it out or take a photo.
You have correctly identified those components. The yellow item is a capacitor, and above it is a resistor. It's hard to say what they are for without seeing the back. Maybe hardware denounce on...
If you made the solder joint properly it is more likely that fatigue will cause one of the leads on the resistor will snap, the wire will break, or you could pull a pad off of the circuit board...
How is it snapping? As FJK says, it can go anywhere in the circuit, but if you are making proper solder joints it shouldn't be snapping no matter where it is?
Buying from aliexpress shouldn't be much different than buying from Amazon, there are no quotes and you generally only pay high shipping if you want express shipments. Generally things will show up...
There are plenty of ready made connectors you can purchase. Just search for "magnetic connector" or "magnetic charging cable" depending on what you had in mind you may find a ready made solution for...
Just about any micro controller can be used, actually an Uno or a Nano are somewhat ideal for it.
I'm assuming you are talking about a standard 12mm switch. The determining factor would be the outside diameter of your saber, the listings show the relevant dimensions.
What sorts of switches are you looking at? I'm not sure what switches would show milliamp current ratings. You need to look at the DC current rating, not the voltage (you'd be hard pressed to find...
Adding solder will not cause the pads to lift off, I'm not sure why you think it would. Solder won't be that much softer than the HASL or ENIG on the PCB, but it will be much thicker, and is easy...
You can run some solder on the rings. If you do this just make sure not to heat it up too much, or you may release the wires on the other side. If you do one ring at a time and let it cool, it...
very nice, I like the design.
I recommend using aviation style connectors which you can find by search for GX16 or GX12. This is how I've been making removeable chassis parts for years, and even the first pixel blades. (I still...
That could do it.. or you could send an email to sales at... That may be best if you have drawings or CAD files already.
5.5x2.5 would be the typical alternative. If you are really concerned you can try using a different style. Assuming you are buying batteries with proper protection circuits, the 7.4 charger would...
I don't think you really need to worry about ordering extras, maybe the diffuser.
Are you really set on using white blades? Especially for the the tri-cree blades, the thick white will wash out...
Anything that is taking someone else's copyrighted work without permission is technically illegal. The question is more whether you get caught and they care to protect their copyright against your...
It's in the manual. Check out page 36 ;)
They have an entirely different theory of operation. The NB plays files sequentially, events trigger a new file to play. it's essentially an automated sound player. Smooth swing actively blends...
If you truly have no idea where to start, look at the more basic sound boards and carefully read the manuals.
Great, enjoy it in good health.
I have been using exclusively BTF leds for about 5 years now, and have used thousands of their LEDS (my work bench alone features over 2000 pixels), so I don't think the quality is the issue.
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