Gorgeous. Like, wow.
Type: Posts; User: Miraluka
Gorgeous. Like, wow.
Very nice
Funny thing about this one is, without the weathering, I wouldn't have liked it much. You definitely kicked it up a notch. BAM!
Love that mid section with the weird placing of the port/switch/screws. Super awesome.
I'd say, start with these videos:
Building a saber with sound
NBv3 onboard pex (FoC)
Color mixing with resistors
You could watch any of the videos from the tutorial section that you think...
Thanks. Yeah, it's been a minute. Took you half a year to notice I was gone? :cry: I'll try to pop in here and there.
That's a very attractive chassis you have in there. Well done.
Welcome to the forums, you total newb, you. :smile:
Just remember, you don't have to start out by digging through the search bar for information, (it's hard when you don't know what you're...
Super cool. Can't wait to see the next one.
Benvenuto al forum!
For me, choosing blade color is just like choosing the appearance of the rest of the hilt. I have something specific in mind and I don't really have interest in changing it. I'd rather just use the...
That's funny about the hilt troubles. Reminds me of Breaking Bad... if you've ever watched that show.
Yeah, I have a saber set up with a blue/cyan/white LED all running at once (the cyan LED is basically just green) and the blade is barely cyan colored at all. It's mostly just white. If you like...
Welcome to the forums.
Diagram is too small to read. It's probably just exceeding the attachment size. Try uploading it to an image hosting website and linking it to your post.
That is all 3 amber. It was a tri I bought specifically to compare to the SF LED. Not much difference between 2 and 3 dice but either way, I don't have any photos of the tri amber with only 2 dice...
You may have seen conflicting info from people like me... I overdrive my rebels quite a bit although I always make sure to say that I don't recommend it, and that if you do, Overdrive at your own...
Any board in the store can work. Even the NB supports 1 accent LED which is all you really need for a CC. If you wanted to use more, you can run them parallel to the blade or use a board that...
Oh, don't go mistaking me for an experienced builder ;) I'm just some guy.
It's listed in the specifications of the LED in the store. (or you can look up the XP-E2 color datasheet) it's 3.41vf @ 1A
Assuming you're using a 3.7V battery, that would be a much stronger resistor than you need. I suggest you take a look at this thread.
Unless that's a typo and you meant .47ohm
Cool idea, though.
I haven't read the new V3 manual yet so I haven't looked at how the onboard Pex is wired, but the rest looks good.
Nice diagram, too. Easy to read/follow. Good work.
Looks cool. Definitely gave me the first impression that it was going to be a dual blade.
Best rule of thumb is to always use a resistor, even if you don't have to.
Here's a tip: Do you use the white, plumbing PVC? Use the gray, electrical conduit PVC. It has more flex to it and it's less prone to snapping than plumbing PVC.
I'm not sure what you're asking in...