>n00by catchy title goes here<

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

I actually have zero soldering experience but know a friend who is an expert. I'm sure you've heard this before but, how hard can it be? I just hope I don't end up ruining a $100+ board.

Yeah, you might not like the real answer to that question. Fortunately, I know people who fix boards once they've been "borked".

As far as actual features, this is going to be a pretty basic saber. I'll only have one switch to turn it on/off and I'm fine with unscrewing it to recharge or change the sound font.

I think the Prizm is the sound module I want. I'd much prefer the smaller Nano Biscotte, but it doesn't have FoC. I think there's enough room to squeeze it in the 2" female between the rotating crystal chamber and the choke, but I'll have to find a way to mount it to something to keep it from rattling around. Any ideas? Hot glue is my first thought. My next is some sort of scaffolding made of toothpicks

NB's (V2's) do have FoC. You still won't fit it into a 2" piece, as only 1" of it is really "usable". You could use the chassis parts sold int he store, assuming you can come up with the right design, and then get it all to fit. You'll find that the space is a whole lot smaller than you think it is.

[Ty_Bomber]

If you want a single switch, I suggest the nano. You can easily add FoC to it with a power extender:

https://youtu.be/ZldjWimMAvE

The prizm uses a 2nd switch to trigger extra fx like lockups and blaster deflections. So Nano would definitely suit you, and help save much needed real estate.

As for the chamber, I would have had a recommendation, but it appears it is no longer for sale, so you’ll just have to hope yours fits.

[Darth Wumbo]

Yeah, you might not like the real answer to that question. Fortunately, I know people who fix boards once they've been "borked".

Don't worry, I'll take it slow and cautious, even if it means only soldiering at a rate of one wire a day.

If you want a single switch, I suggest the nano. You can easily add FoC to it with a power extender:

https://youtu.be/ZldjWimMAvE

The prizm uses a 2nd switch to trigger extra fx like lockups and blaster deflections. So Nano would definitely suit you, and help save much needed real estate.

As for the chamber, I would have had a recommendation, but it appears it is no longer for sale, so you’ll just have to hope yours fits.

Thanks, I was actually just watching that video

I'm not sure if the Prism + PEx would be a benefit or not since the extra wires could cram up too much space. Then again, splitting up the board has it's own cramming advantages. I think I'll go this route.

I've redesigned my saber a few more times. In the diagram below, the first seven are configurations tested by Ammnra (the creator of the rotating crystal chamber unit). The final three are mine.
http://i.imgur.com/9eTpbCC.png

It looks like at the absolute minimum, I can shave my saber down to 11.7". This is my goal.

To do this, I'll need to trim down both the speaker mount and the heatsink. I'm not going to be attaching any batteries or boards to the speaker mount, so a lot of it is excess that should be fine to shave, correct? I may be tricker to squeeze it into the threaded part of the pommel. As for the heat sink, I'm not sure if that's going to be a problem. I know from building computers that messing with the heatsink can lead to catastrophe, but this is much different. If I trim it down, I'm not loosing much surface area and I shouldn't need to worry about the LED overheating and melting things, should I?

I'm also going to need to wire up a LOT of cards. The longer latching AV switch simply takes up too much space. The shorter momentary AV switch seems better, but now I'll have to squeeze in a Momentary to Latching converter. I think it can be done, but it'll be a major hassle working with the MLc, Nano Biscotte, and Power Extendor.

So does it seem possible, or am I crazy? When it comes time, I'll probably end up ordering some extra extenders just in case the shorter ones are too short.

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

A NB won't work with a latching switch. The space behind the speaker holder helps with the sound.

As I said earlier, I highly doubt you have enough room as you have it currently configured. I don't think you quite appreciate how little room you're going to have, and adding a bunch of extensions will look weird after a while. The 14" one looks like it might be doable.

If you want a "short" saber, and the chamber you want, I would lose the long choke section (or ditch the idea of a Jania Solo type layout) altogether.

[Darth Wumbo]

So I don't even need the converter for me to use the shorter momentary switch? Awesome.

I can respect good sound, but I think I'll still try shaving the holder. It's cheap enough that I'll just order two and try it out.

Nah, the long choke is it's second most defining feature. I really think it'll feel good in my hands and make it easier to twirl between my fingers.

You're right. I won't be able to appreciate how much room I've got until I've got the pieces to work with. If it's way too crammed, I'll order the longer 2" or 3" extension. Ouch, I just realized I'll also have to order hole machining for those extensions as well. Oh well, maybe I can work them into another build in the future.

[Darth Wumbo]

Alright, so here's a wiring diagram I made. Could someone please check my work to make sure everything's fine and nothing's going to explode or give me cancer or come alive and eat my dog? While your at it, look for any shortcuts or more space conserving ways to complete what I'm trying to accomplish here.

http://i.imgur.com/cewE8B5.jpg

Thanks in advance, you guys are awesome.

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

You may find that it will be better to put a resistor on each die of the main LED (after the splitoff). Also I don't see a resistor at all for the FoC die.