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Thread: Newbie tool Dos and Don'ts

  1. #1

    Default Newbie tool Dos and Don'ts (Also, tips and tricks!)

    Okay guys. So as a relatively new saber builder (and relatively new builder of anything, really), I've had times when I've gotten all the recommended tools and materials, got a perfect workspace with everything I thought I'd need, and had NO idea what to do next, or how to go about things so as to get decent results. And because of that, I've had to experiment, and have ruined a few otherwise nice parts. (I reminisce like this was a long time ago, but I just dremeled my first sink tube like last week. It was a dismal failure.) And I want to keep this sort of thing from happening to other saber builders who are just starting out. So! Veteran sabersmiths, please throw in your ideas and specialized tool suggestions for how to NOT ruin your awesome saber and expensive tools, for those of us who haven't ever worked in a machine shop. Tips, suggestions, techniques for doing tricky things, that sort of stuff!

    I have a few already! Every one from personal experience!

    Safety first! Seriously! When working with any power tool, goggles are not a recommendation. THEY ARE A REQUIREMENT. Every day that I've worked with a dremel, a drill, or a saw, I inevitably hear at least one "TINK!" as some sand-sized shard of haphazardly shaped metal impacts on my goggles. Without goggles, those would be embedded in my eye. You can get cheap safety goggles for less than $3. I cannot stress enough how much you need these. Also, don't get anything saber-related in your mouth or nose. Solder smoke, paint/glue fumes, metal dust, solder residue; all these things can mess you up real good. At least use a dust mask and ventilate your work space. And wash your hands before touching anything outside your work space. This costs next to nothing, and will help keep you healthy and building sabers far into the future. (As for lead-based solder, they say it works better, but I have to use the non-lead type because I'm way too absent-minded to remember not to touch anything else.)
    That's it for the "not killing yourself" section, now onto "not ruining your saber"!

    Use the correct size soldering iron!
    Nothing like trying to attach wires to a circuit board using a giant old clunky thing and accidentally bridging some connections, and causing your batteries to explode. Make sure you've got one thin enough to work on these little electronics!

    Be careful how much solder you're using! Just like a big iron, using a giant gob of solder by accident is a great way to blow something up or short something out. Those solder sponges come in real handy here if you've got too much on your iron/gun, you can just wipe it off.

    Heatshrink is better than electrical tape!
    Usually. If you're just testing your connections, of course, just use the tape, so you can remove it. Boy, once you get that heatshrink on, it's hard to get off. And that, along with keeping your wires managable and compact, is kind of the point. Even soldered connections between wires can come apart when trying to cram all that junk into a hilt.

    Know your dremel accessories! Because boy, there's nothing more interesting than having the wrong grinding bit on and taking more material off the bit than off the part you're trying to grind. Make sure you've got bits for working with metal. (I know Jay-Gon has a great sink-pipe cutting technique hidden in one of his brass saber threads) Hopefully someone will be able to point out some specific bits that work well for common dremel tasks (cutting curves into sink pipes, etc)

    Secure your parts! Use a vise or some clamps for large parts. Seriously. It's hard enough to keep a power tool steady with both hands. But one hand on your part, one on your tool? Forget about it. Some free-form dremeling doesn't require clamping down, but if you're cutting or drilling, it's an ABSOLUTE NECESSITY. You know, if you don't want to have giant scrape marks all over your nice shiny parts, and holes that are all crooked and weird.

    So, anyone else have suggestions for working with saber parts for us amateurs out there?
    Last edited by Flyerfye; 06-26-2008 at 10:01 AM.
    "You fool! I've been trained in your Jedi circuit diagrams by Count Dooku!"

  2. #2

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    Don't forget practice, pratice, practice. Over one summer years ago I made sabers out of pvc piping, a dremel, and a drill clamp for the dremel. You're not going to get it right right off the bat. What sucks is getting only a few cuts from being done, and messing up. *cue chuck botched saber, and cutting yourself a new length of pipe, start over* It took me at least two tries most of the time, and if I was lucky, I got it right the first time. And I got better the more I made. I even made a reproduction of the first saber I made just to see if I could do it better.

    Practice soldering, desoldering, using that heat gun on the shrink tubing, everything. The better you know how to use your tools, the less likely you'll mess up, and the less chance you'll hurt yourself. I made those pvc sabers with earplugs and a full face shield. And I consider safety equipment tools! Practice those too, as in use them!

    This is my 3:40 am contribution to this fantastic thread. Cheers to flyerfye for creating it

    Now I go to sleep hoping this handful of cents is useful to you all.

    Maverick

  3. #3

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    Thanks Maverick! It's good advice! I probably just need to take a few hours every week and practice this stuff until I get good at it.

    I'm not sure this really belongs here (hah, it's my own thread ), but I did just discover something surprising and cool last night while working on a sink tube.

    Marking your parts with a sharpie or other permanent marker is a great way to figure out where to cut (I find that I never end up cutting in the right place with graph paper, then it gets all torn and messed up) but what if there's some left on your part after you're done and you're wondering how to get it off? Going over it with a dry-erase marker and then erasing it will actually remove sharpie and most other permanent marker marks on metal, glass, and other smooth hard surfaces (like a whiteboard!)
    "You fool! I've been trained in your Jedi circuit diagrams by Count Dooku!"

  4. #4

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    Regarding soldering, my advice is:
    You should avoid soldering a circuit board with the batteries attached.
    Use a quick detach plug of some kind to attach you batteries to the rest of the circuitry, and plug it in when you are finished soldering.
    CybKnight -
    For honor in gaming and beyond

  5. #5

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    You could always solder in the battery holder without the batteries in it

    Still, good point.

    Maverick

  6. #6
    Youngling DDanDevious's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flyerfye View Post
    Thanks Maverick! It's good advice! I probably just need to take a few hours every week and practice this stuff until I get good at it.

    I'm not sure this really belongs here (hah, it's my own thread ), but I did just discover something surprising and cool last night while working on a sink tube.

    Marking your parts with a sharpie or other permanent marker is a great way to figure out where to cut (I find that I never end up cutting in the right place with graph paper, then it gets all torn and messed up) but what if there's some left on your part after you're done and you're wondering how to get it off? Going over it with a dry-erase marker and then erasing it will actually remove sharpie and most other permanent marker marks on metal, glass, and other smooth hard surfaces (like a whiteboard!)
    you can also use alchohol to remove sharpie and it cleans the chrome up real nice... I always trace my designs right onto the pipe so that the paper doesnt get in the way...

    also always be super aware of what is in proximity to your soldering iron... the other day I set my safety glasses down a bit to close to the iron, and the plastic on the glasses heated up... then I went to put them on and burned my ear pretty good. For some reason im always burning myself on stuff, so yeh learn from that too... haha.

    DDD

  7. #7

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    Soldering irons get around 800 degrees. Enough to put a hole in your thumb without it hurting. Then it hurts like nothing else a minute or two later. I speak from experience, don't mess around with them, get one with a stand, and a water sponge. A clean soldering iron works best. Swipe it a few times after each connection you solder, then put it in the stand. Wait about 30 seconds, next connection.

    Maverick

  8. #8
    Council Member Novastar's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MaverickJsmith View Post
    You could always solder in the battery holder without the batteries in it

    Still, good point.

    Maverick
    Not all battery setups warrant a battery "holder". For example, a rechargeable setup that will be using a recharge port--usually the batteries will be hard-wired in some way to the board.

    A quick disconnect is a good idea for many parts though.

    Although--there really isn't much danger in soldering batteries directly to a part... unless you're feeding 12v to (for example) an MR. But even if you had a battery holder... that wouldn't help anything.

    My contributions (although there is a thread somewhere that is somewhat akin to this one):

    * Color-coordinate your wires in a logical fashion (example: black = neg, red = pos, green = switches, yellow = speaker, etc. whatever)
    * Plan your layout with "fake analogs" of your parts/electronics that are the exact size and shape and test fit things. Figure in for at least a 1/4" of "extra" space even if you THINK everything should fit just fine.
    * When in doubt, RESEARCH/READ first... THINK/ASSESS, then experiment... and finally: now ask a question.
    * Pay your tithing to Murphy.
    ~~ GREYTALE NOVASTAR (Writer, Director, Choreographer, Sound Designer, Actor, Saber Designer, Vocal Artist)
    ~~ Balance of Power, EP I: "Into The Lion's Den"
    ~~ Balance of Power, EP II: "Ashes of The Phoenix"
    ~~ The Crystal Focus Sound CD Compendiums... are HERE! ~~
    ~~ Nova & Caine's Staged Combat System... comin' SOON!
    ~~ Crystal Focus Wiring Guide

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