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Thread: CFX and 16mm AV ring switch wiring.

  1. #1

    Default CFX and 16mm AV ring switch wiring.

    Hey all, finally attempting to build the saber I bought at the start of covid.
    I've attached a wiring diagram, and I'm following Nick Kurszewski's excellent playlist on his build. I made a few changes from his though and am fairly confused regarding the wiring/resistance needed.
    Mostly I can't find what each pin on the 16mm Anti Vandal Latching Red Ring Switch is so I'm not sure exactly how to wire it. I'm also fairly confused as to how much resistance I need to include with this one.
    Per the shop page, "The LED has a forward voltage of 2.1V and runs at 20mA. 4.8V would use a 150ohm 1/4 watt resistor, 6V would use a 220ohm 1/4 watt resistor."
    I don't think I'm missing resistance anywhere else, and the Aux switch isn't specific on polarity if I'm correct.

    Thanks all.

    Board: Crystal Focus Sound Module X bought 03/2020
    Battery: DM Sony Li-Ion 18650 3.7V 15A 3120mAh PCB Protected Rechargeable Battery
    Switches/ports:
    16mm Anti Vandal Latching Red Ring Switch
    Black momentary switch
    Switchcraft 2.1mm Power Jack
    3.5mm R.I.C.E.™ Port Style 1
    Speaker: 2W 28mm Bass Speaker

    Saber Wiring.jpg https://imgur.com/a/NsjYb0m
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Vehemet; 05-12-2024 at 08:13 AM.

  2. #2

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    You could try using my calculating resistance guide (link in my signature) to figure out which resistor you will need. As long as you’re using one of the accent pads to power the switch LED, the supply voltage will be 3.3V.
    TCSS MODERATOR
    All n00bs READ these first (PLEASE)!!!:
    1. Forum Guidelines
    2. FJK’s “Down and Dirty” guide to Ohm’s Law

    "Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
    My email: fjk_tcss@yahoo.com

  3. #3

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    Thanks FJK, is there any info on the other leads for the switch? Not directly sure which is which.

  4. #4

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    There should be markings on the bottom of the switch. the ones marked with the +/- symbols will be your LED polarity posts, the other two would be the switch posts and aren't polarized so does not matter which connects to what so long as one connects to the button pad and the other to GND.

  5. #5

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    So the ones directly on the sides are the LED posts? Ah okay now that makes more sense, i thought the two bigger ones would be for the switch itself.

    There are 3 on the bottom labeled NC1, NO1, C1.
    So I'd wire the C1 post to the negative along with the aux switch, and the NO1 post to the ACT point on the board then? And I should have a 220ohm resister in the line for the NO1 wire correct?

  6. #6

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Vehemet View Post
    So the ones directly on the sides are the LED posts? Ah okay now that makes more sense, i thought the two bigger ones would be for the switch itself.

    There are 3 on the bottom labeled NC1, NO1, C1.
    So I'd wire the C1 post to the negative along with the aux switch, and the NO1 post to the ACT point on the board then? And I should have a 220ohm resister in the line for the NO1 wire correct?
    Thats a latching A/V switch. Here is a post where I discuss that wiring.

    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...atching+switch
    TCSS MODERATOR
    All n00bs READ these first (PLEASE)!!!:
    1. Forum Guidelines
    2. FJK’s “Down and Dirty” guide to Ohm’s Law

    "Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
    My email: fjk_tcss@yahoo.com

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