First Build-Graflex 2.0 Saber Kit

[RoninBJJ]

awesome. I'm thinking of trying this build with a simple crystal chassis design. I cant wait to see how this works out for you.

I scrapped my crystal chamber idea, at least for the time being. The blade holder takes up a large amount of room and only leaves enough room for about a 4.5"~ for a basic chassis. You have a couple of options at this point:
1) You can order 3D printed chassis but it requires pretty heavy modifications. Not something I am willing to do...
2) You can wait for a different blade holder to possible be made, perhaps the one by TCSS, and hope that it takes up less room than the current blade holder.

So Did the heat sink and LEDs from saberbay fit comfy??? I will order mine if they did.

I have not received it as of yet. I order both the heat sink and B/B/W Tri Cree LED w/ optics from him and he said it would ship tomorrow (Friday). I set the order back by adding the LED to my order last minute. Justin took the time to answer all my question and in timely manner, super helpful.

So I will really try and upload a video tonight with views of the internals and other small little details and obstacles.

[Sith4Life]

I guess he was familiar w this new graflex 2?I hope things don't rattle around inside bing smaller then a real graflex

[RoninBJJ]

I guess he was familiar w this new graflex 2?I hope things don't rattle around inside bing smaller then a real graflex

It isn't exactly new, if you follow the first link you will see the original concept thread for this hilt. The first run was delivered in October 2015 I believe. The second link is the is how I found out about the 7/8 heat sink sold by Saberbay. Seems like everyone has been happy with their purchase.

http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?topic=46738.0

http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index.php?topic=48378.0

[UteOH]

I scrapped my crystal chamber idea, at least for the time being. The blade holder takes up a large amount of room and only leaves enough room for about a 4.5"~ for a basic chassis. You have a couple of options at this point:
1) You can order this 3D printed Graflex2.0 Crystal Chassis But it requires pretty heavy modifications. Not something I am willing to do...
2) You can wait for a different blade holder to possible be made, perhaps the one by TCSS, and hope that it takes up less room than the current blade holder.



I have not received it as of yet. I order both the heat sink and B/B/W Tri Cree LED w/ optics from him and he said it would ship tomorrow (Friday). I set the order back by adding the LED to my order last minute. Justin of Saberbay took the time to answer all my question and in timely manner, super helpful.

So I will really try and upload a video tonight with views of the internals and other small little details and obstacles.

So, I received my heat sink, LED, and optic from Justin today. The heat sink fits nicely in the blade holder (see pic). It is 17mm tall. Looks like it will work great.

I am also including my simple work around for the loose circuit board. Open the clamp release lever. Place the circuit board in with cardboard shims (2 thin packaging cardboard pieces did it for me). Close the release clamp. Nice and tight! Took me less than a minute.

I ordered the "Knight" version of the 3D printed chassis you mentioned. It comes in two sections: the second section is specific for the sound card you choose and inserts in the first. Includes a crystal chamber if desired. Will let you know how it fits when it arrives.

I agree the red button needs modification to work with the micro switch. Since the latter fits into the main switch hole on the hilt so well (with the retaining nut), I plan to use it. I will reference my earlier comment: glue a short piece of rod into the recess of the anodized button. This will make the recess much shallower. The button will sit higher, easier to activate.image.jpgimage.jpg

[Sith4Life]

Nice thanks for the photos!

[Sith4Life]

What micro switch are we using?

[Sith4Life]

Also guys what's the length of this chassis any one know?

[RoninBJJ]

So, I received my heat sink, LED, and optic from Justin today. The heat sink fits nicely in the blade holder (see pic). It is 17mm tall. Looks like it will work great.

I am also including my simple work around for the loose circuit board. Open the clamp release lever. Place the circuit board in with cardboard shims (2 thin packaging cardboard pieces did it for me). Close the release clamp. Nice and tight! Took me less than a minute.

I ordered the "Knight" version of the 3D printed chassis you mentioned. It comes in two sections: the second section is specific for the sound card you choose and inserts in the first. Includes a crystal chamber if desired. Will let you know how it fits when it arrives.

I agree the red button needs modification to work with the micro switch. Since the latter fits into the main switch hole on the hilt so well (with the retaining nut), I plan to use it. I will reference my earlier comment: glue a short piece of rod into the recess of the anodized button. This will make the recess much shallower. The button will sit higher, easier to activate.image.jpgimage.jpg

My heat sink and LED arrived yesterday as well. I will most likely drill and tap my blade holder to hold the LED module in place just below the red activation button. I will also have to open a section of the ribbed portion of the blade holder via dremel in-order to allow for the switch wires to come through and connect to the red activation button. So I have my work cut out for me over the next few days... I am really not happy about cutting into the blade holder, but I don't see any other way to have a functional red button activation without doing so. If anyone has any suggestions I am all ears!

[Sith4Life]

My heat sink and LED arrived yesterday as well. I will most likely drill and tap my blade holder to hold the LED module in place just below the red activation button. I will also have to open a section of the ribbed portion of the blade holder via dremel in-order to allow for the switch wires to come through and connect to the red activation button. So I have my work cut out for me over the next few days... I am really not happy about cutting into the blade holder, but I don't see any other way to have a functional red button activation without doing so. If anyone has any suggestions I am all ears!

Guys there's this guy shameem can't spell his last name properly sorry he's done this build a few times with the V.2 and hasn't cut it up I'm waiting on anwser I hope he can shed some lite.

[UteOH]

Guys there's this guy shameem can't spell his last name properly sorry he's done this build a few times with the V.2 and hasn't cut it up I'm waiting on anwser I hope he can shed some lite.

According to the detailed instructions that are published by the guy who designed my chassis, opening a window in the blade holder is necessary. If you find a less destructive option, Sith4life, I would love to hear it!

Btw, the inner diameter of the hilt is different at the level of the internal blade holder and below. Which measurements do you need?

I have been seeing lots of variability on resistor values.

Ronin, you and I are using the same TriCree from Justin.
I tracked down the specs from Cree here: http://www.cree.com/~/media/Files/Cr.../XLampXPE2.pdf

All three of the XP E2 LED's have a forward current of 1000mA.

At that voltage, here are the forward voltages of the various colors:
Green: 3.7 V
Royal blue: 3.4 V
Red: 2.65 V

The Prizm sound board sends the entire voltage of the power supply to the main LED's via a common anode.
I am using a 18500 at 3.7 V
So the required resistors are:
Green: none.
Royal blue: R=3.7-3.4/1=0.3; P=0.3 * 1^2=0.3W, so 0.3 ohms @ 0.3 W (rounding up to 0.47 ohms @ 0.5 W available in the store).
Red: R=3.7-2.65/1=1.05/1=1.05ohms @ 1.05 ohms (rounding up to 1.2 ohms @ 3 W available in the store).

You guys agree with the calculations?