Wiring check for a PC 3.5 dedicated blue blade

[RobotCamel]

Wiring-Diagram.jpg

Here is a wiring diagram for my first ever saber. I'm hoping that someone with more experience could check my work so I don't mess up any of the components. I think everything is labeled well enough in the diagram, but please ask if I missed any important information.

A couple of notes about the diagram:
I'm sure my Wattage is higher than it needs to be on both resistors, but they only have a 10W 5.6 Ohm in the store, and I have 1/4 Watt resistors at home for the accent LED. I believe it doesn't hurt anything to be higher right? Also, the accent LED will be the red ring of a 16mm AV switch. The store says it runs at 20mA, but he accent LED pads have a max 18mA (from what the manual says). I'm calculating the resistor running at 15mA, to keep it under the 18mA max. Will it light up with less current like that?

Finally, I'd like to have a RICE port (I can figure out the wiring for that based on the manual). But, every tutorial I've seen about configuring with RICE involves an RGB blade, not a dedicated colored blade. And it looks like the only LED configuration buttons in the program are for the various combinations of R, G and B. Does anyone know of a tutorial out there, because I couldn't find one? I assume I would just manually set channel 1 current for the blade color. And then, then if I understand the manual, I'd set the channel 2 FOC current to the max (1500mA)?

Thank you for any assistance!

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Your diagram looks pretty good. If the FoC is White, you can use the 4.7 Ohm, 5W resistor.

Since you have "dedicated" colors, you can just manually change the configurations on the card before hand. The Blue should be set to 1000mA, and when you calculate the resistor for the White, it should ultimately get 1000 mA as well. Leaving the channel 2 setting at 1500 and the external resistor will be fine.

[RobotCamel]

Thank you so much!

[cvsickle]

Your diagram looks good.

Just something to think about... Do you really need a disconnect between the recharge port and the board? I can't think of a reason to have one, and removing it would save you some precious space

[Bark]

Remember to comment out all of the color profile lines in the card's files. There are other threads here that state they will make the main blade not light up for single color main blade dies.

I have the same build as you and read those posts. I commented all of the lines out in the override file before ever trying to light the saber up, and it was just fine when I finally did.

[RobotCamel]

Thanks all for the extra tips!