looking good!
(you may want to look into the positioning of the clamp though... only ANH filming prop had the clamp the the left of the bunny ears, promo for ANH and all of ESB had clamp to right)
I am set to receive parts for my first saber tomorrow. (Among other things) I went with the blade holder style 20, which is as close to graflex as I have seen. I have been wondering the whole time how I am going to do this so I guess I will finally ask.
How can I do the small piece inside the blade holder/shroud. If you look at the pictures for blade holder style 20 there isn't anything inside the curved part. Regardless of how I accomplish this, I am going with a 7/8" diameter blade, but for the life of me I can't find any hardware stores that sell any type of tubing that is 1" outer diameter and 7/8" inner diameter. Any suggestions?
Why are you using a 7/8" blade??
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I just think they look better. Personal preference I guess. But it doesn't really matter. Were I using a 1" blade I would have the same problem, more so in fact. I am not using the 7/8" blade because I feel like I have to for this additional blade holder piece, I just like it more. In either case, any help? I don't want to take up too much space in this thread since I am technically not sharing any pictures of a graflex saber (yet) and I would like to get some help before the posts get taken down, if they do.
Thanks again
Yep, fully aware on that one this was my "temp" clamp until I got my TCSS clamp in, that was yesterday. Any how, I am a Right hand dominant, every since I was 10 the clamp on the other side seemed odd to me. On my vint(s) I have the clamp on the proper side for display, when its a rep I expect to duel with it so I go for the comfy grip
One last thing, if you pay attention in ESB (first scene with Yoda) you will notice the clamp position change from left to right
It's my first kick at the can.
Graflex 2.0 scratch-dent kit from TCS
Order 66 chassis
My own (very humble) crystal chamber. Made from hard drive parts, leftover bike air valves and some compression fittings. I haven't placed/wired any accent LEDs yet.
Tri-Cree B-B-W
Nano Biscotte V4
Thick-walled 7/8 blade. (It photographs well, but seems too dim to me in person. I might get a thin-walled blade for display)
I've got the drive settings in the override file for the V4, so I'm not using resistors. In addition, I've got all three LEDs on in the main config because I love the white-blue look as it matches the original blade colour quite nicely, IMHO.
The only thing left to figure out is why my recharge port isn't playing nice. For whatever reason, I can't get power to the board unless I bypass the kill switch port and connect the board, battery - and the switch to the - terminal on the recharge port. This means that power isn't cut using a kill key or when charging. Weird.
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