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Thread: FoC Troubleshooting

  1. #1

    Angry FoC Troubleshooting

    Ok guys, so I rewired my first saber to test out a new connector (wire management can be a pain) and decided I would try to set up FoC again. Well...I basically have the same problem that I had before, except the whole thing doesn't crash when FoC is triggered.

    My problem is this: the FoC die illuminates as soon as the kill key is plugged. As I'm sure they'll be necessary, here are pics of my electronics:













    Any help would be awesome! Thanks in advance!
    "We don't have to win. We only have to fight." - Mace Windu (Shatterpoint)

  2. #2

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    You have way too much exposed wire on your LED connections. It's possible your FoC die is shorting back to the negative terminal of your battery pack. Try to get the solder joints on your LED looking more like the ones on your PC. I'd clean up the bridge on your LED as well while you're at it.
    We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings.

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  3. #3

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    Stupid question, I'm guessing, but is thermal tape reusable? I'm guessing that it'd be impossible to redo my LED while mounted on the heat-sink. If it isn't...is there a good substitute for it? Thanks SS! I was worried that something like that was happening, but wasn't sure. I'll try rewiring it later today and see what happens. I think that LED was the first thing I soldered ever
    "We don't have to win. We only have to fight." - Mace Windu (Shatterpoint)

  4. #4

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    So I rewired the LED and nothing has changed. Just to make sure I did better....here's the redo shot.



    Could I have a bad PeX? Something where the remote portion of it doesn't function properly? Or maybe something's wrong with my PC? I can't really think of anything else that it could be...all the wires are properly isolated as far as I can tell.
    "We don't have to win. We only have to fight." - Mace Windu (Shatterpoint)

  5. #5
    Youngling Jordandau's Avatar
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    I personally haven't wired a pex quite like you did. I don't see anything wired to the part where the resistor would go on the pex. I do see you have a larger resistor in there somewhere, but I don't know what it's connected to. If you're not using a resistor ON the pex, did you bridge the connection?

  6. #6

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jordandau View Post
    I personally haven't wired a pex quite like you did. I don't see anything wired to the part where the resistor would go on the pex. I do see you have a larger resistor in there somewhere, but I don't know what it's connected to. If you're not using a resistor ON the pex, did you bridge the connection?
    He bypassed the (+) side completely, which is ok.

    Quote Originally Posted by Kyaryo Ysoyav View Post
    Could I have a bad PeX? Something where the remote portion of it doesn't function properly? Or maybe something's wrong with my PC? I can't really think of anything else that it could be...all the wires are properly isolated as far as I can tell.
    I would try everything outside the hilt (if you are not doing so already). I would also wire the FoC wire directly to the control pad on the PEX (no connector). Also where is the (-) wire specifically going to on the PC?
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  7. #7

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    See above. Simultaneous posts.
    Last edited by Kyaryo Ysoyav; 05-14-2013 at 06:13 PM.
    "We don't have to win. We only have to fight." - Mace Windu (Shatterpoint)

  8. #8

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    I would try everything outside the hilt (if you are not doing so already). I would also wire the FoC wire directly to the control pad on the PEX (no connector). Also where is the (-) wire specifically going to on the PC?
    I could try bypassing the connector, but I don't think that's the problem. That was how I had it wired the first time I had wired up my lightsaber and I had the exact same problem. The (-) wire is actually not connected to the PC at all, both the (-) and (+) wire are running from the recharge port. I figured it didn't matter where they got the power from. Is that wrong?
    "We don't have to win. We only have to fight." - Mace Windu (Shatterpoint)

  9. #9

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    Quote Originally Posted by Kyaryo Ysoyav View Post
    I could try bypassing the connector, but I don't think that's the problem. That was how I had it wired the first time I had wired up my lightsaber and I had the exact same problem. The (-) wire is actually not connected to the PC at all, both the (-) and (+) wire are running from the recharge port. I figured it didn't matter where they got the power from. Is that wrong?
    You should wire them directly to the main power pads of the PC.
    TCSS MODERATOR
    All n00bs READ these first (PLEASE)!!!:
    1. Forum Guidelines
    2. FJK’s “Down and Dirty” guide to Ohm’s Law

    "Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
    My email: fjk_tcss@yahoo.com

  10. #10

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    That's how I had it before, too. Out of curiosity, why does it matter? The wires they are connected with are the (+) and (-) wires that run to the PC anyways. I guess I should've been more specific in my above post. I have the wires that come of the power pads run into the connector, then I split the wires on the other side, so they are basically wired to the main pads. You can mostly see it in the last picture of my first post.
    "We don't have to win. We only have to fight." - Mace Windu (Shatterpoint)

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