First Build Assembly Questions

[IvPalmer]

So I'm facing a little issue with internal space here

I'm trying to put together some sort of "housing" so my Petit Crouton sits safely inside the hilt, but it's really hard!

Here's some pictures so you guys can see what my build looks like

photo 1.jpg
photo 2.jpg
photo 3.jpg
photo 4.jpg
photo 5.jpg

The PVC casing I did is not really working, the speaker + battery is really tight and leaves little room for the PVC. Anyone has any ideas of what I could do to make the Petit Crouton safe inside the hilt? I don't wanna just leave her inside without protection.

Thanks guys

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

OK, So we apparently have just learned the little lesson of designing a hilt WITH the electronics in mind,

Now, to answer your question, your best bet it to place the PC in the front grenade section, and rig some kind of chassis to secure it to. The question will then become will all the other wires still be long enough to reach (like the speaker and battery wires). Normally if you do a 14xxx side by side pack (and a recharge port), generally the board can be secured to the top. If you look up my "Traveller" build, I believe one of the pics shows what it looks like mounted to a disk and rod chassis.

[TrypWyr]

Just a little tip here that's been great for me:

For putting soundboards in the smaller diameter ribbed pieces, M&M's Minis tubes are perfect. They slide right in there but still loose enough to screw the parts tegether and not twist your wires. Not the prettiest if you are looking for a reveal, but wonderful for those sabers you would rather not open often/ever.

BTW, love that design, simple and elegant. You plan on any paint?

[IvPalmer]

OK, So we apparently have just learned the little lesson of designing a hilt WITH the electronics in mind,

Now, to answer your question, your best bet it to place the PC in the front grenade section, and rig some kind of chassis to secure it to. The question will then become will all the other wires still be long enough to reach (like the speaker and battery wires). Normally if you do a 14xxx side by side pack (and a recharge port), generally the board can be secured to the top. If you look up my "Traveller" build, I believe one of the pics shows what it looks like mounted to a disk and rod chassis.

Haha yes, I indeed will plan ahead next time.
I've been reading around the forums and people say it's not recommended to make a recharge port with the batteries i'm using (two trustfire 14500 3.7V 900mha) because of a heating problem. So I only wired the jack to have a kill switch. I think the wires are long enough, I will try as you suggested and see if it it's better to put the PC at the grenade! Thanks

Just a little tip here that's been great for me:

For putting soundboards in the smaller diameter ribbed pieces, M&M's Minis tubes are perfect. They slide right in there but still loose enough to screw the parts tegether and not twist your wires. Not the prettiest if you are looking for a reveal, but wonderful for those sabers you would rather not open often/ever.

BTW, love that design, simple and elegant. You plan on any paint?

That's an amazing idea! I will surely try!
Thanks! I plan on painting the inner grenade part with frosted black, and maybe get some leather wrap on the hilt. I'll also try some aluminium black weathering at some parts. I'll post pics when i'm done


Thanks for the help guys!

[IvPalmer]

OK, So we apparently have just learned the little lesson of designing a hilt WITH the electronics in mind,

Now, to answer your question, your best bet it to place the PC in the front grenade section, and rig some kind of chassis to secure it to. The question will then become will all the other wires still be long enough to reach (like the speaker and battery wires). Normally if you do a 14xxx side by side pack (and a recharge port), generally the board can be secured to the top. If you look up my "Traveller" build, I believe one of the pics shows what it looks like mounted to a disk and rod chassis.

Also, I keep seeing people using this chassis that you're using:

http://i1115.photobucket.com/albums/...r/DSC00247.jpg

I searched the shop over and over and found nothing that looked like that, did you made it?

Amazing saber by the way! Congratulations

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Also, I keep seeing people using this chassis that you're using:

http://i1115.photobucket.com/albums/...r/DSC00247.jpg

I searched the shop over and over and found nothing that looked like that, did you made it?

Amazing saber by the way! Congratulations

I assembled the chassis into the configuration you see, but the parts were purchased elsewhere ( a long, long time ago) - chassis parts weren't offered here years ago. The person I got my disks from a long time ago is no longer active in the community as of now.

[IvPalmer]

Geez im such a genius.... they do sell in the shop! u_u

http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Ac...pack-P769.aspx

Well no time to order one now, guess i'll have to make it work with what I have!

I feel so stupid...

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Well, there you go... like many of life's lessons, one tends to learn them the hard way, and just a little too late. Now, you know better for "next time" or when you decide to upgrade this saber of yours.

[Kaide]

Just thought i'd add my 2 cents.

As for a chassis. All you really need is some way to keep the board from directly touching the aluminium of the hilt. Do you have any plastic cheap toy light sabers with the collapsible blades? $20 from walmart....If so, cut off a chunk of the blade & use that...ive done it on many custom builds.

Also, ive done a build similar to this (battery setup wise w/out a kill key), and you're right. The board stays on even while turned off. I tested it several times, & the trustfires will last about 4 days w/out use & 2.5 days with use. So buy a 2nd pair and keep them charged and ready to go, so you always have a charged set to swap in.

[IvPalmer]

Just thought i'd add my 2 cents.

As for a chassis. All you really need is some way to keep the board from directly touching the aluminium of the hilt. Do you have any plastic cheap toy light sabers with the collapsible blades? $20 from walmart....If so, cut off a chunk of the blade & use that...ive done it on many custom builds.

Also, ive done a build similar to this (battery setup wise w/out a kill key), and you're right. The board stays on even while turned off. I tested it several times, & the trustfires will last about 4 days w/out use & 2.5 days with use. So buy a 2nd pair and keep them charged and ready to go, so you always have a charged set to swap in.

Unfortunately, those sabers cost about $100 here, so i'm gonna give a try with the m&m tube first haha

I have an aluminium tube that fits inside the hilt, but I think the PVC or the m&m tube might be more secure.

As for the batteries, I did wire a jack with a kill switch (you can see in the picture I think), though it wont be a recharge port. At least my batteries will survive longer.

Thanks!