A few Questions about switches, batteries, speakers and pommel recharge ports

[Loachri MacTalabh]

DYI FORUM

I have yet to find anyone stating whether or not a recharge in the pommel effects the sound,

If you do a search, you will see a multitude of Sabersmiths and Hobbyists have put the speaker at many different positions through out the hilt. So,,,,,,Sound isn't effected.

The speakers again, I have not found anyone stating how thick they are,

Look in the shop. Your answers are there.
Premium Speaker;http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Pr...eaker-P77.aspx (HINT: Look at the PDF)
2w bass speaker;http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/2w-bass-speaker-P662.aspx

The switch again I can't find anyone stating the switches length...

There is 54 different switches in the shop. Most have the same dimensions. So which one do you plan on using?

[Garrek]

DYI FORUM

Sorry, I'm not sure what that means. did you mean DIY?

If you do a search, you will see a multitude of Sabersmiths and Hobbyists have put the speaker at many different positions through out the hilt. So,,,,,,Sound isn't effected.

Yah, I had assumed that but just wanted to be sure.

Look in the shop. Your answers are there.
Premium Speaker;http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Pr...eaker-P77.aspx (HINT: Look at the PDF)
2w bass speaker;http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/2w-bass-speaker-P662.aspx

Oh wow, I feel kind of stupid now, never even saw that.
So it is about a third the thickness.

There is 54 different switches in the shop. Most have the same dimensions. So which one do you plan on using?

I'm talking about this one specifically.
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/16...itch-P471.aspx

The only two that have MHS Builder spots are the two illuminated switch types, "man are they" long and the shorter version of the same.

Thanks for the response.

[Ka'getsu]

@Garrek I noticed that you said that you were going to run your led dies in series.... Depending on the power solution you're going to use, you might want to think about running them in parallel, since running them in series will tend to eat your batteries rather quickly, that's been my experience anyway.

Best of luck on your build

Cheers

Ka'ge

[Garrek]

@Garrek I noticed that you said that you were going to run your led dies in series.... Depending on the power solution you're going to use, you might want to think about running them in parallel, since running them in series will tend to eat your batteries rather quickly, that's been my experience anyway.

Best of luck on your build

Cheers

Ka'ge

As I understand it, wiring two LED in
Series is 3/4v and 1000ma to 6/8v and 1000ma.
Parallel is 3/4V and 1000ma to 3/4V and 2000ma, or 1500 I think is the most a PC can go.
So two led in parallel should run half as long as two in series on the same battery pack.

Maybe you "or I" am confusing the terms. I'll admit I have done that more then once.

[Sunrider]

As I understand it, wiring two LED in
Series is 3/4v and 1000ma to 6/8v and 1000ma.
Parallel is 3/4V and 1000ma to 3/4V and 2000ma, or 1500 I think is the most a PC can go. *This is correct*
So two led in parallel should run half as long as two in series on the same battery pack. *This is incorrect. 1amp at 8V is the same amount of power as 2 amps at 4v.*

Maybe you "or I" am confusing the terms. I'll admit I have done that more then once.

Series is 3/4v and 1000ma to 6/8v and 1000ma.
Parallel is 3/4V and 1000ma to 3/4V and 2000ma, or 1500 I think is the most a PC can go. *This is correct*

So two led in parallel should run half as long as two in series on the same battery pack. *This is incorrect. 1amp at 8V is the same amount of power as 2 amps at 4v.*

There are many different ways to run dies and packs to power them. There are many opinions on the different setups. I like parallel myself, to drive them hard. but this is more complicated sooo...

[Garrek]

Series is 3/4v and 1000ma to 6/8v and 1000ma.
Parallel is 3/4V and 1000ma to 3/4V and 2000ma, or 1500 I think is the most a PC can go. *This is correct*

So two led in parallel should run half as long as two in series on the same battery pack. *This is incorrect. 1amp at 8V is the same amount of power as 2 amps at 4v.*

There are many different ways to run dies and packs to power them. There are many opinions on the different setups. I like parallel myself, to drive them hard. but this is more complicated sooo...

Ah, I see. Power is a confusing thing. :/

With a pair of 14650 li-ions at 7.4v and 1600mAH, running through a PC, would you personally suggest a parallel or series setup for the best light output vs time?
I could possibly go for a 4 pack, though I don't think I will and at that point a stick pair of 18650 would prolly be a better choice.

[Weaver]

Looking at the available options, I'm going to have to say that parallel wiring is the better way to go. I was told that running multiple pairs of 14500 (AA size) Li-Ions in parallel (each pair is wired in series, making three 7.4v packs in parallel) would extend runtime and offer a larger input current. If you're running your LEDs in parallel, this may be what you want.

Unfortunately, parallel LED wiring can suffer from color separation. I've not done enough research on that subject, since I wanted my first saber wired in series, but it sounds awful. If you're going for RGBW (like I want to, eventually), it's worth doing some extra research on how color separation may affect the wiring.

In the end, I'd have to say that multiple packs are the way to go (at least, for me), since the smaller battery size would make better use of the space we have to work with. I'd much rather have half the hilt reserved for small packs, and use more of the width of the space available, than have the entire hilt taken up with a pair of batteries which wastes most of that space. If there were AAA size Li-Ions, I'm sure I'd go with those.

It's also possible to put an extra battery pack inside (if you have the space) and directly drive a few extra components without wiring through the PC. If you wanted, for instance, a cooling fan, but already maxed your input to the PC, you could acquire a small power regulator and run the extra pack to the fan. You'd either need removable batteries or a second recharge port, but it would be better than sacrificing power to your LED.

Don't feel bad about not having all the answers. I've been here for almost two months and I'm still reading everything I can get my hands on. I don't see that changing in the short-term.

EDIT: Actually, just sourced some AAA size Li-Ions from an external site (link omitted). 10440s are on my list, now. 3.7v, 500mah, unprotected, flat top. I'd rather have tabs, but I'll take what I can get. I'll have to cobble a cylindrical battery holder for them.

[lukeskyrunner666]

how do i change my pic

[Loachri MacTalabh]

That switch only goes a little less than 1/2 the diameter of the MHS.

Yes I meant DIY. As in DO IT YOURSELF!

[Garrek]

That switch only goes a little less than 1/2 the diameter of the MHS.

Yes I meant DIY. As in DO IT YOURSELF!

I intend to... the parts I can at least.
So the soldering and screwing together basically.

Just have to decide between that one and the shorter led switches.
I don't particularly care for the led buttons but having the option is always good.
Could turn out I like them better in person and they don't look to bad unlit either.

Thanks for the information again.