Yeah, I've been using a 616 with diodes in one of my sabers for about 6-7 months now and has been working flawlessly during that time of (moderate-heavy) use. These are great cheap sound cards!
Yeah, I've been using a 616 with diodes in one of my sabers for about 6-7 months now and has been working flawlessly during that time of (moderate-heavy) use. These are great cheap sound cards!
Am I understanding this correctly in that you DO need to make a diode mod to the wiring of a 616/JJ sound board if you are running the LED seperate (para) from the board itself? I ask as I am not sure if the issue is a Puck thing as stated earlier or a Puck & Resistor issue. Just trying to determine the most simple and 'powerful' lighting method on a Lux3 - 616 combo that will work without major issues.
Last edited by Darth Abominor; 08-07-2009 at 09:54 PM.
yes, you need the diodes whether you use a puck or a resistor. I have found that for some reason, if you use a corbin driver you dont seem to need them.
Last edited by Arm on Fire; 08-08-2009 at 12:28 PM.
Originally Posted by Arm on Fire
Yup, with a Cobin board you don't need the diodes. Dont know why either. The diodes aren't hard to wire in any case, just like a resistor.
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Fender, hate to correct you but they're not quite as easy as resistors.
Diodes are polarity sensitive.
The band near one end indicates the anode (negative end).
Resistors do not matter for orientation, except if you have several side by side and want them to match the color patterns' orientation.
Diodes are used to allow electricity flow in only one direction. A specific example of this would be in the use of a rectifier, used to turn AC voltage into DC voltage.
So not harder for number of solder joins, but yes harder in the fact that polarity does matter.
This is an odd issue to begin with... I used this setup in two sabers, one has the 'no power down sound' problem, the other doesn't. I don't understand how, they are wired identical to each other. You may not have to do anything at all.
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So when adding the Diodes to the +lines for the:Fender, hate to correct you but they're not quite as easy as resistors.
Diodes are polarity sensitive.
The band near one end indicates the anode (negative end).
Resistors do not matter for orientation, except if you have several side by side and want them to match the color patterns' orientation.
Diodes are used to allow electricity flow in only one direction. A specific example of this would be in the use of a rectifier, used to turn AC voltage into DC voltage.
So not harder for number of solder joins, but yes harder in the fact that polarity does matter.
Battery --> Sound Board
Battery --> Speaker -not needed-
Battery --> Resistor/Puck --> LED
the +side of the diode should be facing the item in line which you want to isolate from the 'backflow' and the -side of the diode should be facing the Battery Pack itself. yes?
Last edited by Darth Abominor; 08-10-2009 at 10:30 AM.
Yes, I don't think you need one for the speaker thoughSo when adding the Diodes to the +lines for the:
Battery --> Sound Board
Battery --> Speaker
Battery --> Resistor/Puck --> LED
the +side of the diode should be facing the item in line which you want to isolate from the 'backflow' and the -side of the diode should be facing the Battery Pack itself. yes?
So it should only be 2 diodes and an LED / sound board situation.. I'll put mine together Thursday eve and see how it pans out.
As long as it's the negative wire you connect to the negative side of the diodeSo when adding the Diodes to the +lines for the:
Battery --> Sound Board
Battery --> Speaker -not needed-
Battery --> Resistor/Puck --> LED
the +side of the diode should be facing the item in line which you want to isolate from the 'backflow' and the -side of the diode should be facing the Battery Pack itself. yes?
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