Ever read so much you get your self even more confused than when you first started?

I'm working on a Graflex with a PCv3 and a RB/RB/Wh Tri-Rebel of a 14500 2 pack. I have been reading through the manual and was looking online for the 2512 2W SMD resistor to put in for the white die when I read in the manual the example resistor calculation.

For those who haven't seen it, it looks like this:

Required resistor for the FoC circuit :
R = (Vpack ? Vf die) / FoC current
R = (7.4 ? 3.7) / 1 = 3.7 ohm

Wattage of the resistor :
P = RxI2 = 3.7 watt.

This makes perfect sense to me (V/I=R)as there are two 3.7V batteries running the board. From what I can see, the Vf of the white die should be 3.2 so I should have a 4.2ohm resistor. easy as pie.

And below that Erv says:
Since the FoC circuit is only active for a short time (maximum 10 seconds during a
lockup), it?s acceptable to use a 2 or 3W resistor in the example above.

So I can get away with using a lower watt resistor. Good to know

But then it says:
If the user wants to drive an accent LED out of the FoC pad (and not a high-power
LED die), this can be of course achieved without a Power Xtender board, just like any
accent LED. The pad outputs 3.3V and 18 mA maximum.

this is where I get turned around.

Forgetful Jedi Knight has a wiring diagram but it has the PEx on it.

Wait....I thought the PCv3 eliminated the need for a FoC or PEx satellite board? According to every diagram I can find, the +power comes from the battery+ pad and should be 7.4V where as the negative(-) LED wire connects to the resisted part of the FoC Pad. Where is this 3.3V pad at? SO I can drive the white die FoC LED from one FoC pad and use an accent out of the other? The more I search the more confused I get...

Then it says:
If you want to activate one channel during the Flash On Clash effect, set the
channel "current" to the max (1500). Lowering the value will adjust the drive of the
FoC but it will make the onboard Power Extender act as a resistor and it will absorb
some of the heat. However, a drive adjustment is not recommended most of the time,
let it to the max and adjust the value of the 2512 resistor instead.

So there is an onboard power extender and I should adjust my resistor calculations for 1500mA instead of 1000mA?

Am I over thinking this? Should I just buy a 3 Ohm/3 Watt 2512 and solder it into the "green rectangle" from the manual?
Any clarification or simplification out there?

Thanks in advance.