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Thread: 09 HFX Obi Wan ROTS - Done & Kits available

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    Lord Maul's Avatar
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    Jun 2006
    Seattle area, Washington

    Default 09 HFX Obi Wan ROTS - Done & Kits available

    This tutorial will show you how to convert your 2009 Hasbro FX Obi-Wan Kenobi ROTS saber to a 3watt Luxeon using the conversion kit that I offer. The saber will retain all sound functions and use the original switch. You must make sure your hilt is the same design as the one shown in this tutorial. I make no guarantees that the wiring etc that I say to use in this tutorial will be the same in all models. You will need to have basic soldering and mechanical skills to do the conversion. You can reuse the stock MR blade by putting some clear or reflective tape around the base to make it a tad bit bigger. When finished you will have one very strong saber as everything between your hands and the PolyC blade will be metal to metal with no weak plastic.

    Parts List
    Hasbro Obi Wan ROTS
    Conversion kit
    8.7 Degree Collimator Lens
    Lens Holder
    Rebel Star LED
    Thermal Tape
    1/4" long 8-32 set screw

    Pictures of the stock saber.

    Remove the end cap and battery pack.

    Pry off the gold switch plate. Only pry off the thin gold strip. This can be difficult to do without damaging the part.

    Unscrew the two screws holding on the control box, and pull it off.

    Snip the wires holding on the control box. Push the wires into the hilt.

    Unscrew the phillips head screw that is hidden by the control box. Don't lose this!

    Push out the electronics. They come out through the pommel.

    Drive out the metal pin near the blade holder. Make sure to drive out the knurled end first, so it is easier.

    Split apart the electronics housings. Use a hammer to tap the sides of the housing to break apart the glue. It can help to use a small flathead screwdriver to help spread the pieces apart. Unplug the blade assembly from the sound board.

    On the blade, there is a small pin inbetween two big holes. Drive in the small pin that is left. You will now be able to slide out the LED strip.

    Split apart the black housing. Clip the wires.

    Solder leads to your LED, and mount it to the heatsink. Be sure to align it correctly so the optics sit right. Now is when you put the thermal tape on (not shown). It sticks between the LED and heatsink.

    Strip and tin all the wires. Don't forget to slide on the heatshrink before soldering!
    Purple wire from connector connects to Positive terminal on LED
    Gray wire leave alone
    Brown,Red,Orange,Yellow,Green, and Blue wire from connector connects to negative terminal of LED

    Plug in your LED to the sound board. Test out your saber!

    Unplug the LED again. Take the new blade holder and line it up with the two halves of the old one. Cut off an equal amount of the original plastic one as is taken up by the aluminum holder.

    Attach the optics to the LED. Then thread the heatsink into the blade holder.

    Plug the LED wires into the sound board and reattach the halves of the original electronics. Tape the new blade holder and the electronics module together.

    Make sure the switch leads are inside the plastic part. Slide the electronics back into the hilt and pull out the wires. Reinstall the screw that is hidden by the control box to hold in the electronics.

    Solder the switch leads back onto the switch. Be sure to solder the wires to the same pins they were on originally.

    Reattach the control box to the saber. Now is a good time to test out your saber again.

    Drill and tap a hole for the blade retention screw.

    Put in the screw and a blade. Reglue the gold strip. You are done!
    Last edited by Lord Maul; 05-28-2010 at 10:22 PM.
    Aluke123 on every other forum - Old grumpy moderator here

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