MR with clash.

[grayven]

Well I did try recently with a GGW. I was doing a MR Yoda conversion and thought this would be a great place for the clash Flash. The setup worked but the green way overpowers the white so it's hardly even noticeable. I know the BBW works next I will try the RRW, it should work fine two. I think for the green blades I will have to cut off the green for the second I flash the white. So it wil take more components and space. I have been really sick this last week and a half and just now starting to fell better. I'm also still waiting for the RRW and BBW from Xwing for the other two conversions. I will post more as it comes. Unfortunately with life in the way it makes for a slow progression.

[Rhyen Skytracker]

Awesome job guys. I am interested to find out which one will be the best setup for the flash to show up well. Please keep us informed.

[Novastar]

I'm going to try hastening the process by intervening with a batch of Rebels that I can hopefully order fairly soon. We'll see though.

Although... to help folks out (unless they already know, and then they can disregard)... you have a few ways of approaching things:

Let's start with a RRW example. And I'll add the caveat that I don't even know if that will produce the effect desired yet. We'll see. But anyhow, it's an example for clarity:

RRW

R + R in series, looking for ~6v... 700mA to 1000mA

W in parallel (as flash) for ~3.2v... on its own line to the batteries, so no real concern of extra current flowing through the "normal" circuit. You can drive as much or as little current through as you like (or as your extender allows), probably 1000mA would be good.

Why it could be a very good setup... well, if your battery solution is at least around 7.2v or more... you're easily able to handle the "normal" R + R current... and if you have CF or US... you can play around with the current values all you like since you could send up to 1500mA if you were really daring to "go wild" with overdrive. Plus, the flash is (as mentioned) irrelevant to the current flowing through CF, so... you should be good.

RRW

R + R in parallel, looking for ~3v... 1500mA to 2000mA (2A generally not possible with most sound+light drivers like CF and US)

W in parallel (as flash) for ~3.2v... on its own line to the batteries (same as above)

Why this isn't really as ideal as the above... well, although this reduces the battery voltage needed (and so you could even sport a single 3.7v Li-Ion 18650 cell)... the draw is pretty hardcore, and if you were running CF or US... you'd have to set it to the maximum--1500mA. And you'd have no room to go higher, obviously. This would be running each LED @ ~750mA each.

Additionally, you'd barely have enough power to boost other components (such as nice speakers, motors, LED indicators)... and possibly even the right amount to drive the board. In other words... it might be ok in the first 5 minutes with full charge... but... shortly afterward, you would not be powering your main LEDs at maximum spec.

Further--remember that the harder the draw (more amps you're asking for)... ... the easier/quicker the voltage falls/drops. So... it's quite possible that when you caused the clash (and the flash) to be triggered... well... uh, ok, your battery would NOT be able to maintain the right voltage to REALLY make it "pop out" at you. At least... that's my best guess at it.

Now... if you gave your setup 4.5v... ok, maybe you'd be good for the parallel setup, but... hmm.

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SO! Make of all that what you will... and hopefully more will be to come later on. I don't know. Work's been keeping me busy. Plus some other things that I'll tell you guys about later on...

[Anavrin]

Hi,
Thank you Grayven, Do-Clo, and Novastar for the great work you are doing.

Is there ETA for the tutorial on this? i figure i am a couple of weeks away from needing to salvage the board off my joe-jedi saber - i've managed to crack the blade already after a week of ownership .

I plan to place an order for a custom 3-up Rebel by the end of the week and the color combo i choose is somewhat dependant on knowing how this is done (my hilt is getting kinda full).

Cheers,
V

You CAN make the blade removable and add in a TCSS or Corbin style blade to the hilt–or simply buy a new thin walled blade (Buuuuut, you see where THAT ended up ). I just made my blade removeable and it's really about an hour and a half's work. Tomorrow I'll post the Tut.

EDIT: Didn't realize your post was so far back, Vade, Mea Culpa! But I'll carry through nonetheless for any interested.