MR with clash.

[Marsupial]

if it is power cycling, maybe the LED sucks in too much juice, and the board simply brown-out or black-out.

Give it a try with a lower LED, just for testing sake?

[grayven]

Yep, I came to the same conclusion. I have since rectified it and well see what Nova Says about it tonight.

[psab keel]

Hey guys,

I hope I didn't come across as critical. (You all know I am all for innovation- that's how we get all these cool upgrades and advances in the technology). Keep up the great work. I have an MR board that will be going into a saber so if this works out, I might have a really cool feature to put into this next saber of mine.

Thanks, Psab

[grayven]

Hey guys,

I hope I didn't come across as critical. (You all know I am all for innovation- that's how we get all these cool upgrades and advances in the technology). Keep up the great work. I have an MR board that will be going into a saber so if this works out, I might have a really cool feature to put into this next saber of mine.

Thanks, Psab

Not at all. I would much rather find a problem now than be blinded and look like a schmuck at the end.
But yes Nova brought that to my attention the same night I posted the vid. It has since been resolved. All clash sounds now work with no resting. The flash is not as long but still noticeable. If need be i could increase this with the use of a cap, but I don't think it needs to be. We'll see what Nova say when he sees it tonight. It's still a sweet effect. It will be cheaper to use on a standard MR board verses the 616 only because you will be able to almost fully power the main blade LED right from the board. On the 616 you will need to something else to fully power the main blade LED.

[Mandalorian]

I'm really looking forward to this. Any idea when a tutorial might be up? I'm currently converting some MR's and this would be great.

[psab keel]

Thanks Grayven,

Keep us posted on your progress!

[Novastar]

Psab... FUHGEDDDABOUDDID!!! That was not critical. And who cares, we NEED input or we won't be challenged and "get better". This is actually why I got involved with all of this in the FIRST place...

BOP I was a bloody CHALLENGE! It seems like kid n' play *NOW*, but... back then, it posed problems at every turn, and solutions weren't just like "oh, let's go look up what to do". We had to figure it out!

BOP II was the same only 4x "worse" with more challenges. I loved it while hating it... it pushed the limits (I think).

Doing 36mm speakers and the really cool resonance in Flange III and the electronics in general... was a GIANT thing for ME--no soldering/EE experience until late 2006, so... boy was THAT harrowing. It was like running blindfolded through a maze of chasms, hahahah.

So, now I had spoken with Don (Do-Clo) and was bouncing these ideas off of Grayven for the "Seven Six-Sixteens", and... here we are now. HUGE SHOUT OUT TO DON HERE... without him--this solution would not be possible (at least not coming from me and Gravy). Seriously--without his knowledge, suggestions and experience... this whole dang opry wouldn't have happened, heheh So tell him thanks or die, will ya!

ANYHOW... I got some video tonight of Grayven's updated/"repaired" go of the MR Flash on Clash. Now remember, I have seen it in person now... and... me LIKES this. Really... it's a very good effect in my opinion--better than I expected!!! And it's not like it takes a ton of wiring expertise nor large amounts of space, nor does it really drive the cost into the stratosphere. Mad props to Grayven for going through the efforts and having the cahones to do it...

The video may or may not "really show it well". I don't have an HD cam, and you have to understand:

* Rebel LED (three up: EDIT--it's RGW, I made a mistake originally posting here that it was two blue, one white I believe)
* The blue is already ON, the red was off
* The white flashes when the shock sensor is tripped/triggered

This is significantly different from the "normal" collision flickers we're used to from both CF and US (and even Corbin boards) because of three major reasons:

* Three LEDs in there, and... as I said--two are already "on"!!!
* No light "flickers DOWNWARD/LOWER"... it simply ADDS LIGHT!!
* Later on... when we're using two of the LEDs for the "main" blade on the Rebel... A single white LED expected to "overpower" TWO blue LEDs (of similar voltage, type, current, color, etc.)... is just ridiculous

Now... someone might suggest: "Why don't you use a single LED to drive the main blade... and the TWO for the clash"? Well... that could probably happen. But:

* Main blade gets to be a lot brighter if 2 LEDs are "constantly on" (duh)
* It's still early in the game... we might just do that as a test...
* Well... if you'd LIKE to get a "special color" by mixing two colors for your main blade... well... that isn't going to be possible with this method
* I personally like the idea of "stepping it up" and starting to use TWO LEDs from the Rebel to give an extra amount of brightness.

So hmm, that seems to cover quite a bit for now... I'll post the video once I DL into my machine, edit it up, UL it to Y-Tube and go from there.

Be patient though--I have all these bloody b-day party videos to add!! I'm behind by like three parties. UGH it's sooo much footage to sift & wade through, DEEZ driving meez NUTZ!

[grayven]

Slight correction Novastar.
The Xwing LED I was using was a red, blue, and white. I was only using two of the LED for the test, Blue for the main blade and white for the clash.

[Novastar]

To quote Carl Lewis: "Uh-Oh..."

heheheheh! D'oh... sorry for that!! I will edit that post for posterity and others who may read later on...

[vadeblade]

Hi,
Thank you Grayven, Do-Clo, and Novastar for the great work you are doing.

Is there ETA for the tutorial on this? i figure i am a couple of weeks away from needing to salvage the board off my joe-jedi saber - i've managed to crack the blade already after a week of ownership .

I plan to place an order for a custom 3-up Rebel by the end of the week and the color combo i choose is somewhat dependant on knowing how this is done (my hilt is getting kinda full).

Cheers,
V