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Thread: 200 white lumens for 1amp!! NEW K2's

  1. #21
    Council Member Novastar's Avatar
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    Exactly. I was saying... fans are not usually subject to being "shocked".

    However, with the fan suspended inside a solid hilt, it is possible the fan could be setup to be more shock-absorbent. And as I said--tiny motors can be used successfully in there...

    The real question is about having such an IMPORTANT moving part in a saber... protected from failure! I mean, if a vibration motor fails... well... big bloody deal. Oh darn, repairs for later, and it's not THAT big of a deal.

    If the COOLING FAN for your LED/heatsink combination (maybe even the board someday) fails... you may have some major problems.

    Still... if it were solely to affect the LED... that may only be an $8 to $20 part. Not such a horrific loss. Losing a CF however... well... that would suck.

    Anyhow. To me, fans = only a matter of time.
    ~~ GREYTALE NOVASTAR (Writer, Director, Choreographer, Sound Designer, Actor, Saber Designer, Vocal Artist)
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  2. #22
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    Obi-Dar Ke-Gnomie's Avatar
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    Couldn't someone design a heat sink section that could go between the hilt and the blade holder? This could be one piece that you install the LED to, then screw it all together. The external part of it would have fins to dissipate the heat.

    It would serve a function, and look cool too.

    In case you can't visualize what I have in my head, I'll draw up a picture and post it tomorrow.


  3. #23
    Council Member Novastar's Avatar
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    That is a very good idea... but--it is SORT of already done in a way...

    In addition to the "main" heatsink as we know it--well... the entire saber can ALSO be made to act as a heatsink and draw a little heat away... I mean--especially if it is made of aluminum or copper or what not--like the TCSS parts!

    The main issue (as Eandori has briefly pointed out throughout a few threads) is the fact that it is VERY hard to "make" components that are not one piece... transfer or "share" heat, lol. If that is a good way to put it.

    Eandori has mentioned that REEEAAALLLY tightening the parts together with a really awesome pressure fit, or some screws--will help a lot, and transfer heat even better... basically LED-->heatsink-->actual hilt.

    BUT... there is one other problem--ALSO as Eandori and X-Wing have mentioned, which is simply the LED's architecture. Too much heat on the inner elements/wires of the LED... and I mean the ones YOU or myself *cannot* touch (so, not the + & - wires we solder on)... and they fry.

    If that is the case, not even a slug of copper the size of a Bantha dropping will matter!

    Still... your idea is good! I think I know what you mean--essentially a pre-made part, essentially an entire TCSS blade holder + heatsink... but all as ONE piece? Expensive... but doable! Also--it may be hard to work with the electronics... all depending...
    ~~ GREYTALE NOVASTAR (Writer, Director, Choreographer, Sound Designer, Actor, Saber Designer, Vocal Artist)
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    ~~ The Crystal Focus Sound CD Compendiums... are HERE! ~~
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    ~~ Crystal Focus Wiring Guide

  4. #24

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    hey Gnomie & Nova How bought somthing like this.....
    Its a solid slug of metal to transfer heat but fins would be on the outside of the saber,so as you swing it would cool, mount led right to it and screw blade holder over it , wires go down thru holes in solid body screw onto hilt, could be any length, this one is about 2.5" lg, should be just as strong as the neck down




  5. #25
    Sith Acolyte DACOTA's Avatar
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    Well I think it would be sort of heavy, but it could work. What say you guys?
    "aaah... general kenobi.... you are a bold one."-general grievous

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  6. #26
    Jedi Knight Malaki Skywalker's Avatar
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    It would have to be aluminum or something along the lines, otherwise it could be heavy


    I don't know...

    If your NEW to TCSS READ HERE!! >>>>> http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...d=1#post108682

  7. #27

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    A heatpipe and more fins! Just need to retain enough solid mass for structural integrity.
    My MHS:

  8. #28

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    That might work better with the MHS hilts with male threads on the end opposite the led...

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  9. #29
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    arm on fire

    put me down for 2. lol

  10. #30

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    Arm on fire, you nailed it. That design would cover every aspect I was talking about. Heath channel, heat resevoir, high pressure contact to the luxeon star, and even heat channel all the way to the cooling "fins" on the outside.

    Perfect design. You rock.
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