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Thread: First-Timer looking for a design proofread

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  1. #1

    Default First-Timer looking for a design proofread

    I've purchased two pre-made sabers before, and feel it is time to build my own.

    I've become accustomed to sound in the sabers I've purchased, so while I know it isn't necessarily advised for a first build, I feel a bit ambitious.

    Compared to other builds, I am trying to keep it on the simple side.

    Wiring Mock Up (P-S NB V4 Edition).jpg

    I believe I've listed the basic details of the components. What I'm most concerned about it the viability of merging the Accent LED with the primary in that fashion, as well as a confirmation that those resistors will be suitable. I have no desire for the Accent to be on while the primary is off.

    There is also a possibility that the non-LED 16mm switch may be exchanged for a 16mm Blue Ring. In the case of that hypothetical, could I just duplicate the wiring of the Accent LED and merge is with the other two?

    Thanks in advance. Any direction is incredibly appreciated.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Jono87; 01-31-2018 at 04:00 PM.

  2. #2

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    Well firstly without seeing your hilt design itself, be mindful that all those JST connectors will take up a huge amount of space. Also I used a prewire Nano for my first build back with the NBv3,....you'll have to modify any chassis as they aren't build to handle that board connector.

    I'd suggest posting a mock up for your hilt as well. You can use the MHS Builder and post images if you're using parts from here.

    Folks here are really helpful so don't worry,...you'll do fine.

  3. #3

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    Yeah, the actual hilt design would be very helpful here.
    TCSS MODERATOR
    All n00bs READ these first (PLEASE)!!!:
    1. Forum Guidelines
    2. FJK’s “Down and Dirty” guide to Ohm’s Law

    "Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
    My email: fjk_tcss@yahoo.com

  4. #4

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    Quote Originally Posted by Forgetful Jedi Knight View Post
    Yeah, the actual hilt design would be very helpful here.
    Ah. As you wish.

    SaberBuilder_render_Tr.jpg

  5. #5

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    Alrighty, Warlock. Posted the mock up above. Honestly, I'm planning on using 100% of my saber's pieces from TCSS. The pictures above are the parts I was planning on using. I'm not married to using JST if it'll take up space. I really only love the idea of the pre-soldered NB board, since I've never soldered before in my life. With that said, I have access to a soldering iron and had considered using it to solder wires, and seal them with heat shrink.
    Last edited by Jono87; 01-31-2018 at 06:15 PM.

  6. #6

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    Can totally understand the soldering concerns. Soldering wire to wire is really easy so I'd suggest at least doing that to remove the space/cost of the JST jumpers. Thou with some practice, boards aren't too difficult.

  7. #7

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    Quote Originally Posted by Warlock View Post
    Can totally understand the soldering concerns. Soldering wire to wire is really easy so I'd suggest at least doing that to remove the space/cost of the JST jumpers. Thou with some practice, boards aren't too difficult.
    Awesome. As far as the actual components, circuitry, and resistors, does the wiring design look viable, qualifying any ruling with the assumption that soldering is done competently?

  8. #8

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Jono87 View Post
    Awesome. As far as the actual components, circuitry, and resistors, does the wiring design look viable, qualifying any ruling with the assumption that soldering is done competently?
    Yeah, it’s doable. You should seriously practice your soldering skills on scrap wires, scrap circuit boards, etc.
    TCSS MODERATOR
    All n00bs READ these first (PLEASE)!!!:
    1. Forum Guidelines
    2. FJK’s “Down and Dirty” guide to Ohm’s Law

    "Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
    My email: fjk_tcss@yahoo.com

  9. #9

    Default

    I’ve used the MHS speaker mount V6, and it locks in between the body and the pommel. In order to get to the Soundcard and the SD card (if you want or need to change settings) OR to get to the battery to swap, or recharge, you are going to need to pull the speaker holder out of the body several inches to get clearance.
    Stuffing the extra wire, AND all the JST connectors in the part of the body below the switches will be a challenge.

    I know you said you haven’t soldered before. Neither had I before this hobby! My profile pic (the TARDIS) was my first practice project. It isn’t too expensive to get a iron, and parts to practice on are cheap (old broken electronic toys, 20 year old motherboards collecting dust, etc). Being able to do even basic soldering opens SO many more possibilities for saber configuration!!

    I’d suggest viewing Madcow’s (Rob Petkau of Genesis Custom Sabers) Tutorial video on a Basic Saber with Sound as his example uses Speaker Mount 6, and shows a creative way of wring with a different connector.
    In fact, ALL the tutorial videos are insightful!
    Last edited by bigkevin61; 01-31-2018 at 07:35 PM.

  10. #10

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    I'll go ahead and throw my experience in here. I just finished wiring up my fist build (neopixel) and I have never soldered a thing in my life except for one wire like 15 years ago. It seems daunting at times but once you get the hang of it, it's absolutely worth doing yourself. Not to mention it just feels great knowing you did it with your own hands.

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