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Thread: Wiring diagram help

  1. #1

    Default Wiring diagram help

    Hi all, this is my first post, any advice would be helpful!

    I recently came up with a wiring diagram for my first lightsaber. I think I did everything right, but I thought it wouldn't hurt to have a second pair of eyes take a look.

    lightsaber wiring chart v1.1.jpg

  2. #2


    You have your blue and royal blue die going through one resistor, that may work, but I resistor individually. Resistor them independently, then tie them into the L1 line. You have an RGB LED driving crystal chamber, but only 2 wires on it? Only the blue pole wired? Why waste that LED, you can use RGB to color match for you on FOC.

    Use a common anode RGB 5mm accent LED. Common the positive line up with the rest of your reds. Resistor each negative leg independently and appropriately using Ohms law. After the resistors, tie red/green together and send them to L2 pad with your white die from main blade. Then send your blue negative lead to the L1 pad with the main blues. When you have a FOC event, leave L1 on in the configs, and all 3 colors will illuminate in the RGB LED causing a "whitish" FOC in your chamber that matches flicker!

    Other than that it looks Ok, I wire my main LEDs differently, but there are several ways to skin a cat. The way you drew will work.

    P.S. on your NB board you show battery negative. Don't wire the battery direct to board since you're using a recharge port. Tie the terminable lead from rc port to negative on board. On switchcraft rc port, that is the pole on the rc port that is inscribed usually. this way, when you put in a kill key, you terminate power to the board, and prevent board from getting zapped with charger, because the negative leg is cut off when the charger is plugged in. The only direct negative battery connection is to the rc port direct negative pole.

    Last edited by Tom Tilmon; 10-12-2017 at 05:18 PM.

    "Let the past die."

  3. #3


    Hey, Tom thanks so much for your advice.

    The reason I was only going to use one resistor on the two blue lines is that of space (I'm doing a Korbanth K4) or rather the lack thereof. I saw a video on YouTube by Rob "Madcow" at Genesis Custom Sabers. He said in that video that you could probably get away using one resistor on two blue LEDs. But I suppose the safer route would be a resistor on each line.

    On the crystal chamber side of things. Yes, I'm only using the blue leg of the RBG LED, as that is all TCSS carries. Again the lack of space is preventing me from cramming that many resistors in there.

    Also, the only reason I have a "battery -" on 'NB v4' on the chart is to stay consistent with the labeling from the manual. I believe I have the actual negative battery line going to the recharge port first then the 'NB v4'.

    Thanks again for the help!

  4. #4


    Yes, you would be apsafer to put one on each LED.
    All n00bs READ these first (PLEASE)!!!:
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    2. FJK’s “Down and Dirty” guide to Ohm’s Law

    "Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
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  5. #5


    TSS carries common anode RGB LED's. Look again. The resistors are very very tiny on these, so you should have room. On your main blue LED's the .47 ohm resistors are tiny as well. Should be no problem fitting 2 in there. K4 is tight, but not that bad. You have more room than you think.


    "Let the past die."

  6. #6


    How are you getting on with this?
    I have the same hilt and looking at the same type of build (minus the crystal chamber and accent LEDs)

    I'm planning on 0.47 Ohm 1W on each LED but, as you say, once you get a battery, chassis, speaker and recharge port in there it looks like it's going to get really tight so I'm wondering if I can do away with the resistor for the FoC on the white LED

    Still got plenty of time to plan as most of my electronic parts are still stuck in customs

    Draft wiring diagram below:

  7. #7


    Well I don't know if I can be much help as I'm waiting on parts too, and still tinkering with the weathering. I'm waiting for these things to come in stock, you might want check them out for your build. SaberBay has a shop on etsy if you are interested.

    But I'll give you my plan. I hope to resistor everything in the neck of the saber. I think I can get three resistors laid roughly end to end and crammed in there and still have room for the wires.

    Now I have a question for you I see you using a PeX in your build. Is that required for the NBv4? Maybe someone more knowledgeable can chime in?

  8. #8


    I think the Power Extender was built into the V3 board which it looks like your wiring is set up for but removed from the V4 to allow separate pads for the two main LEDs.
    According to the manual you should be able to get away with no resistors on the Blue,, Green or White EDs, you just need to tweak the drive and fdrive settings in the .ini files. I have read of people reporting phantom swing noises when doing this although this is attributed to older boards but to be on the safe side I think I will wire in the resistors anyway.

    Quick question, are you mounting the recharge port internally or in the pommel?

  9. #9


    I'm sure you've read this already it would appear you only need the PeX if you want to control a 3rd channel, like if you were doing an RGB setup. For what you and I are doing I don't think we need a PeX.

    So I'm having my recharge port sit behind the speaker in a 3d printed chassis. I would highly suggest checking out goth-3designs on Shapeways. He has K4 specific chassis, and I am using his .87" battery, recharge port, and speaker holdersystem.

    Also do you know about KR Sabers? He is based in the UK, so you might be able to get some stuff from him.

  10. #10


    You're most likely correct on the PeX, I was using this video for reference on wiring

    I looked at KR sabers site but they don't appear to sell soundboards, the only UK source I have found is JQ Sabers. Unfortunately they have been out of stock for months.

    I got a 7/8" chassis from shapeways before I bothered to search for a K4 chassis. The one I got doesn't have a charger mount but it does have an easily accessible port for swapping the SD Card so hopefully it will do the trick

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