That's one of the reasons why we say: The enemy of an LED isn't amps or voltage. It's heat.
That's one of the reasons why we say: The enemy of an LED isn't amps or voltage. It's heat.
We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings.
http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz for the lazy man's resistor calculator!
http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...e-to-Ohm-s-Law for getting resistor values the right way!
http://www.solar-wind.co.uk/cable-sizing-DC-cables.html
Though it only offers values from 26 awg or larger. Though its recommendations will most likely also have a large safety margin built in thanks to legal teams.
Yes, it effects the output level and color but more importantly it exponentially effects the voltage drop. Once the critical temperature is reached the voltage draw will hit a run away point until you get a puff of smoke! In a couple of simulations he ran for me in some instances resistors couldn't pop before the LED did.
ace that is super handy! although the numbers it spits out are way lower than i expected/experience. But its probably way closer than any of the various charts ive seen. it probably just comes down to there being too many factors that affect heat dissipation that are unique to each persons hilt and wiring setup. i like that this calculator atleast accounts for jacketed wire and number of wires in bundle.
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Thanks for that
It seems very low to me, a 30 awg wire only handle about 1.18 amps. I think we get more than 1.18 amps on one wire if we use a 3.7 or 7.4 v li-ion battery.
We know that a lot of sabersmiths use 30 awg wire wihtout any trouble. So how correct could the calculator? I know wirequality is also a very important part.
its an estimate. best u can do really. lotta things factor, wire quality, thickness/material of jacket, proximity to other current bearing wire or heat generating components, proximity to heat dissipating materials like aluminum tubing, airflow.. most are safe with 26-30awg range, i think we can leave it there.
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