Need Help With Voltages

[monkeydeeznutz]

Hi, I'm trying to build my first saber right now and I'm kind of confused on how to calculate the voltages needed. I watched TCSS video but it's for a single accent LED. I'm planning on buying a Crystal Focus, Luxeon Tri-Rebel Star RBRBW, 2 Momentary to Latching Converters, 2W 28mm Bass Speaker, and an accent LED for a crystal (which I can't find a blue for). I first looked at the Tri-Rebel and found it said it had 700mA and 910-910-235mW. I'm really confused on the sound card's required power, especially for the idle vs active voltage. I'm not sure what the differences are between the 2 types of Momentary to Latching Converters are. For the speaker, I can't find anything and I can't find a blue accent LED.

Sorry if I seem like a complete noob but I just want to make a really nice saber for myself and this part is the most confusing to me.

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Welcome to the Forums.

You can use the specs from the single Rebel stars to figure out the Vf you need for the Ohm's Law calculations.
You don't need to worry about the speaker's power needs, and 5mm accent LEDs can be found everywhere - Google would be your friend. Using a Crystal Focus card is fairly advanced for someone new just starting out.

[monkeydeeznutz]

So is each bulb on the Rebel a different circuit? What about the power for the sound card and the momentary switches?

I was thinking that the CF was a bit advanced but it seems like all the other cards are out of stock and I would rather just spend on the best thing now rather than a lower end card now and then eventually the same higher end card. I might go for a lower end card later on but I noticed a lot of the lower cards in videos like the NB skip when clashing or something which kinda bothers me. I also have some time before the Graflex replica I'm buying is in stock so I would just watch a lot of the plector lab wiring tutorials.

Do the Graflex chassis parts fit the speaker? I'm having trouble matching chassis parts because of the different thread alignments.

[Jay-gon Jinn]

Yes, each led on the Rebel Star sold in the store is individually addressable, meaning they each are independent of each other on the star. the voltage requirements of the momentary switches does not matter....the board uses very low current in the switch circuit, so any momentary switch sold in the shop here or virtually anywhere will work. There are no resistors necessary for switches or other components in your saber except for the led's and/or a vibration motor if you decide to add one.

I've never heard of the "skip" you mention with any of the lower end plecter boards, and I've used pretty much all of them....that effect you've noticed may be due to the videos you were watching or the sound font on the sabers in the videos.

For your speaker mount in a Graflex, you may need one of these: http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Gr...-S15-P861.aspx to get your holes to line up if you are using the graflex chassis discs and speaker mount 4 from the store here.

[monkeydeeznutz]

Thanks! I guess I'll just go with the NB then. Is there a way to get a notification or something when they restock?

Also, on all the crystal chamber builds they seem to have a brass holder thing for the crystal. Is that some 5mm LED holder or just some spare part everyone has?

Do I need to buy this http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MH...k-V3-P782.aspx to finish the LED or does the Graflex holder replace this part for my lens t be screwed into?

[Jay-gon Jinn]

There is currently no way to receive notifications from the new store software, but Tim is working on finding a solution. Most crystal chambers are built using found parts, there isn't much in the store here for that except the chassis discs, which can be used as a starting point. Personally, i'd look in the plumbing section of your local hardware store at the brass and copper fittings.

The blade holders have an option on their store listing for adding the heatsink, they do not come with one automatically. My personal preference is the v4 style, it's shorter and saves a little bit of space.

[Miraluka]

Also, on all the crystal chamber builds they seem to have a brass holder thing for the crystal. Is that some 5mm LED holder or just some spare part everyone has?

If you want a simple piece to hold a 5mm LED, coaxial cable connectors are cheap and work well. Not sure if that's what you have been seeing, as there are a lot of CCs out there to see.

[monkeydeeznutz]

Should I wire the BBW LEDs in series? If I do, do I add up all their voltages and forwards current? I've looked at the calculator for series and parallel where it asks for how many bulbs but the white LED has different voltage.
Also I heard you don't need resistors unless the LED is red. Can someone clarify this for me?

@Miraluka Thanks, that's exactly what I was looking for!

[Miraluka]

Should I wire the BBW LEDs in series? If I do, do I add up all their voltages and forwards current? I've looked at the calculator for series and parallel where it asks for how many bulbs but the white LED has different voltage.
Also I heard you don't need resistors unless the LED is red. Can someone clarify this for me?

@Miraluka Thanks, that's exactly what I was looking for!

The blade LEDs will be wired parallel.
There are situations where you can get away without resistors but you're better off spending an extra dollar to put resistors in your build rather than popping a $19 LED.

Buuut to actually answer your question... "cool" colors like white, blue and green typically have forward voltage close enough to 3.4V to be potentially direct driven from a 3.4V Li-Ion (white is still a little low) whereas "warm" colors like red and amber have lower forward voltage, more like 2.6V and are not possible to run off a 3.4V battery without a resistor.

[monkeydeeznutz]

Ugh, a Graflex chassis just came out and I already ordered my chassis parts from here... Am I able to return items?

Also why parallel? Would I want all the lights to come on and off with the same circuit?