Cutting MHS Threads

[Mineral]

1) Tighten it all the way down and mark a reference point across the join.
2) On the threads of both the male and female ends, use a sharpie (or whatever) to divide the circle into quarters. Use your reference mark to make sure the quarters line up on male and female ends.
3) Mark the corresponding quarters on male and female A,B,C, & D. So when it is threaded together, male A touches female A and so on. (you can actually do all this marking on the outside of the saber)
4) Grind off the threads, male and female, of A and C, with a tiny encroachment into B and D on both ends.

Now you should be able to slide the two parts together and give it just a quarter turn to tighten it. Using this same idea you could divide it into sixths and only need a one-third turn, or whatever.

[CET]

1) Tighten it all the way down and mark a reference point across the join.
2) On the threads of both the male and female ends, use a sharpie (or whatever) to divide the circle into quarters. Use your reference mark to make sure the quarters line up on male and female ends.
3) Mark the corresponding quarters on male and female A,B,C, & D. So when it is threaded together, male A touches female A and so on. (you can actually do all this marking on the outside of the saber)
4) Grind off the threads, male and female, of A and C, with a tiny encroachment into B and D on both ends.

Now you should be able to slide the two parts together and give it just a quarter turn to tighten it. Using this same idea you could divide it into sixths and only need a one-third turn, or whatever.

Freaking genius!

How well would the pieces hold together? Would they fly apart in the first battle?

[FenixFire]

1) Tighten it all the way down and mark a reference point across the join.
2) On the threads of both the male and female ends, use a sharpie (or whatever) to divide the circle into quarters. Use your reference mark to make sure the quarters line up on male and female ends.
3) Mark the corresponding quarters on male and female A,B,C, & D. So when it is threaded together, male A touches female A and so on. (you can actually do all this marking on the outside of the saber)
4) Grind off the threads, male and female, of A and C, with a tiny encroachment into B and D on both ends.

Now you should be able to slide the two parts together and give it just a quarter turn to tighten it. Using this same idea you could divide it into sixths and only need a one-third turn, or whatever.

Mineral,

That is genius. I'll have to remember that for future prototyping use.

[Mineral]

Seems like it should be as sturdy as full threads if you can get it to tighten all the way down. Try it and report back!

[FenixFire]

If not a single set screw against one of the thread less sections should hold it from backing off.

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Seems like it should be as sturdy as full threads if you can get it to tighten all the way down. Try it and report back!

Have YOU previously tried this? It doesn't sound to me like you have.

If you haven't previously done this yourself, please do not give advice that could cause someone else to ruin their parts.

[snilam]

Seems like it should be as sturdy as full threads if you can get it to tighten all the way down. Try it and report back!

Yikes! this is aluminum we are talking about not Unobtainium. I'm sure one whack and that one lonely thread hanging out by its lonesome will shear right off.

[Mineral]

Have YOU previously tried this? It doesn't sound to me like you have.

If you haven't previously done this yourself, please do not give advice that could cause someone else to ruin their parts.

Why would I have done this? I do not have this problem, but envisioned a solution and suggested it.

CET - I withdraw my suggestion. Please ruin your parts with your own ideas, not mine. Terribly sorry.

[FenixFire]

Yikes! this is aluminum we are talking about not Unobtainium. I'm sure one whack and that one lonely thread hanging out by its lonesome will shear right off.

Actually it would still have about 45% of the total thread contact not just one thread. Have not tried it but it seams feasible. If I have time tomorrow, I will model it and see what the stresses are in an FEA comparison. I would defiantly put a set screw on either side.

[Cire Yeldarb]

Its a fascinating idea. I would definitely think a set screw or two would be called for though