Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 1 2
Results 11 to 18 of 18

Thread: Crystal focus short?

  1. #11

    Default

    yes they are fully charged. they are the TrustFire Protected 3.7V 900mAh 14500 Lithium-Ion Battery pack.

  2. #12

    Default

    CF's need 7.4V packs, unless you performed the 3.7V hack. Also they don't put out a lot of Amperage, so unless you are just running one die, you might be tripping the PCBs in the battery
    TCSS MODERATOR
    All n00bs READ these first (PLEASE)!!!:
    1. Forum Guidelines
    2. FJK’s “Down and Dirty” guide to Ohm’s Law

    "Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
    My email: fjk_tcss@yahoo.com

  3. #13

    Default

    I guess no harm can come out of shorting the switch - and + terminals, because essentially the switch does the same. I also recommend having a look at the SD-Card and the battery charge.
    A CF is robust, anyway the only thing I managed to destroy saber electronics with was to connect the battery with reverse polarity (never tried the hammer on them though). If you did not do that, I guess it still works. Please also check the battery, it could be that there is a low ohmic path between the battery terminals, always depleting or triggering the protection PBC...?

  4. #14

    Default

    ok just to clarify I'm using a 7.4 battery holder using those trust fire batteries. Im going to check the batteries again and if need be, as a last resort I might get a new style battery pack from the shop. I will post an update A.S.A.P. thx

  5. #15

    Default

    Ok I recharged the batteries and it worked lessons learned lol. However, theres another problem. The led doesn't come on when I hit the activation button it only flashes on the flash on clash/lockup. Im using the standard setup. Any thoughts? thanks again this is a big help.

  6. #16

    Default

    Glad it helped, usually the root cause is always the simplest imaginable (engineering wisdom).

    As to the next problem: how many dies do you use? Could it be that only the die for FoC is rightly wired up while the ones giving the blade main color are not? Or maybe in the config files the drive parameters for all except FoC is 0? Since I guess the sound works fine I really this it must be a config issue. Do you have R.I.C.E.?

  7. #17

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by rlh14 View Post
    Ok I recharged the batteries and it worked lessons learned lol. However, theres another problem. The led doesn't come on when I hit the activation button it only flashes on the flash on clash/lockup. Im using the standard setup. Any thoughts? thanks again this is a big help.
    You just need to adjust your color profiles. The one it is on right now has no current to the main LED but current on the FoC. To do a quick swap just do the aux then act to change profiles until you find one that has the main LED lit but ultimately you need to change your profiles anyway to suite your saber.
    MH on FX-Forums

  8. #18

    Default

    Hi. Sorry for the delay, I've been waiting for my aux switch to come in so I can try what Zook suggested. Also I'm using a simple one die setup until the color extender comes back in stock. No I don't have R.I.C.E. I accidentally soldered off my tx pad lol. Ill update asap.

    EDIT:
    I need to buy another battery pack as the one I have broke, so it will be a few days before I can give an update
    Last edited by rlh14; 11-24-2015 at 10:53 PM.

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •