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Thread: CF V7.5 Wiring Check

  1. #1

    Default CF V7.5 Wiring Check

    First time using a CF, wanted to make sure I've got a good idea of what to do before I actually begin.

    Some questions I'd like to get clarifications on:
    1) I don't believe I need a resistor for the "main" die, is that correct?
    2) Did I do the math correctly for the resistors for Psuedo color mixing?
    3) If I were to add a RGB common cathode 5mm LED to light up a crystal chamber, does it matter which LED goes to which color channel? Say since the "main" die is green in the diagram, does that mean that I need to wire the green from the 5mm LED to color channel 1?
    4) Since I'm not using a Color Extender in this build, is it worth it to have the R.I.C.E. port?

    Last edited by ColdVizjerei; 11-09-2015 at 08:43 PM. Reason: Updating Diagram

  2. #2

    Default

    1. You are correct.
    2. For the most part, yes. HOWEVER, your best bet would be to put the RED on the main channel.
    3. Yes, it matters. It would look odd to have a red blade and a green crystal chamber.
    4. That depends on you. I've done builds without it, but then again, I'm use to, and can fairly easily tune a saber manually.
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  3. #3

    Default

    Thanks for the quick response! Glad to know that I'm on the right track.

    Some follow ups:
    1) Awesome!
    2) Will do. Just curious as to why? Is there any specific reason it's called the "main" die?
    3) Got it! So in the diagram above, I'm guessing that the "main" die corresponds to color channel 1, color channel 2 corresponds to the red die, and color channel 3 corresponds to the green die?
    4) Haven't manually tuned a saber yet, so I'll stick with having R.I.C.E. for now.

  4. #4

    Default

    Because Red is the "lowest Vf of the 3. The onboard Voltage detector will handle that one the best, and that also means the other two (Blue and Green) need small resistors. It also makes RGB easy to remember.
    TCSS MODERATOR
    All n00bs READ these first (PLEASE)!!!:
    1. Forum Guidelines
    2. FJK’s “Down and Dirty” guide to Ohm’s Law

    "Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
    My email: fjk_tcss@yahoo.com

  5. #5

    Default

    That's pretty neat about making RGB easy to remember; I didn't think of that. Also, the part about smaller resistors for the blue and green dies is a really nifty trick!
    I'll update the diagram to reflect the changes sometime this week.
    Thanks for looking it over and all the suggestions!

  6. #6

    Default

    Updated the diagram to reflect the changes. Will add in the crystal chamber wiring soon.

    Just wanted to be sure of one more thing: When bridging the SMT footprint, can I simply bridge it with regular 28gauge wire? Or is there special bridging wire for this purpose which I should use?

    Edit: Just realized something! Since I have resistors on the negatives of die 2 and die 3, couldn't I just skip bridging it and simply solder those wires directly to the corresponding pad(the pads closer towards the center of the board)?
    Last edited by ColdVizjerei; 11-09-2015 at 09:07 PM. Reason: new info changes stuff

  7. #7

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by ColdVizjerei View Post
    Updated the diagram to reflect the changes. Will add in the crystal chamber wiring soon.

    Just wanted to be sure of one more thing: When bridging the SMT footprint, can I simply bridge it with regular 28gauge wire? Or is there special bridging wire for this purpose which I should use?

    Edit: Just realized something! Since I have resistors on the negatives of die 2 and die 3, couldn't I just skip bridging it and simply solder those wires directly to the corresponding pad(the pads closer towards the center of the board)?
    If you mean for the main LED, I think you probably could, I would have to take a look at the board to make sure.
    TCSS MODERATOR
    All n00bs READ these first (PLEASE)!!!:
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    2. FJK’s “Down and Dirty” guide to Ohm’s Law

    "Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
    My email: fjk_tcss@yahoo.com

  8. #8

    Default

    not the main LED, I meant the other two LED's. What Erv showed in this video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ucZD7o0m-kQ&t=6m1s
    Is that something that's recommended?

  9. #9

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by ColdVizjerei View Post
    not the main LED, I meant the other two LED's. What Erv showed in this video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ucZD7o0m-kQ&t=6m1s
    Is that something that's recommended?
    Yes, you can do it that way.
    TCSS MODERATOR
    All n00bs READ these first (PLEASE)!!!:
    1. Forum Guidelines
    2. FJK’s “Down and Dirty” guide to Ohm’s Law

    "Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
    My email: fjk_tcss@yahoo.com

  10. #10

    Default

    So I wired everything up just like the diagram, and it works! Only problem was, the blue and green LEDs popped after a few seconds. Took the LED module out and tested it by briefly touching a spare battery pack to the LEDs. Unfortunately, only the red is still working.
    Should I up the resistors on the negatives of the blue and green dies? Pretty sure I did the math correctly so I'm not sure what else to try.

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