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Thread: CF V7.5 Wiring Check

  1. #11

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    Quote Originally Posted by ColdVizjerei View Post
    So I wired everything up just like the diagram, and it works! Only problem was, the blue and green LEDs popped after a few seconds. Took the LED module out and tested it by briefly touching a spare battery pack to the LEDs. Unfortunately, only the red is still working.
    Should I up the resistors on the negatives of the blue and green dies? Pretty sure I did the math correctly so I'm not sure what else to try.
    You didn't have resistors on them to start with??
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  2. #12

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    I did; I started with 0.47Ohm 0.5Watt resistors on the negatives of the blue and green dies...which should be enough if I calculated correctly

  3. #13

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    Quote Originally Posted by ColdVizjerei View Post
    I did; I started with 0.47Ohm 0.5Watt resistors on the negatives of the blue and green dies...which should be enough if I calculated correctly
    Those would be correct - if you are doing 3.7V. Which battery are you using??
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    "Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
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  4. #14

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    Yup, I'm using a 3.7V battery

  5. #15

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    Looking at page 39 of the CFv7.5 manual, it says: "If the current involved in the additional dice of the blade LED is above 350 mA, external power (2 - 4 W) resistor will be needed, just like when powering a stunt off a battery pack with no electronics"

    Does this mean that I'll be needing a resistor on each of those dies with 2-4Watts? Since the ones I used before were only 0.5Watts, is that what caused them to pop/die?

  6. #16

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    Quote Originally Posted by ColdVizjerei View Post
    Looking at page 39 of the CFv7.5 manual, it says: "If the current involved in the additional dice of the blade LED is above 350 mA, external power (2 - 4 W) resistor will be needed, just like when powering a stunt off a battery pack with no electronics"

    Does this mean that I'll be needing a resistor on each of those dies with 2-4Watts? Since the ones I used before were only 0.5Watts, is that what caused them to pop/die?
    No, that passage assumes you are using 7.4V (which would require resistors that size). I'm a little surprised, Tri-Crees are usually pretty robust. The only way i managed to pop one was an accident with my benchtop power unit when I was doing some testing.
    TCSS MODERATOR
    All n00bs READ these first (PLEASE)!!!:
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    "Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
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  7. #17

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    oh whoops, I thought it was applicable since it was under the psuedo color mixing part, & pseudo color mixing is usually done on a single cell. My bad.

    In that case, would you happen to have any other suggestions? The only thing I can think of trying is higher wattage and/or higher ohm resistors when I wire it up again.
    Last edited by ColdVizjerei; 11-28-2015 at 06:40 PM. Reason: grammar

  8. #18

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    Well, I would use say 1 Ohm, 2W resistors to be safe. But your existing LEDs are probably fried.
    TCSS MODERATOR
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    "Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
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  9. #19

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    Yeahhh, unfortunately those LEDs are dead. Ordered another R/G/rB Tri Cree so I'll try using 1Ohm 2Watts resistors on those when it comes in.
    Thanks for your input FJK!

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