First Saber Build, Making Sure I Didn't Forget Anything

[bosox188]

Hi all,

Just would like to have someone take a look through and make sure I'm not forgetting anything, hard to keep track of all the "little" things you need sometimes. Thanks in advance.

MHSV1 Main Body Hilt Style 2 w/machine recessed 16mm AV switch hole
MHSV1 Blade Holder Style 14
Drill and tap hole 8-32
MHSV1 Pommel Style 4
16mm AV Short Momentary Green Ring Switch
150 ohm 0.25w resistor
Super Lube Synthetic Grease (2)
8-32 Covertec Button Thumbscrew Gold
1-3/16" ID Black O-ring (12)

Constant Current LED Driver (1000mA, Momentary)
Green/Green/White Cree XP-E2
18 deg Cree Star Lens
Star Thermal Tape Pad
4AA Battery Holder with JST

Sadly the clash sensor appears to be out of stock but I figure I can add that back in later. I'm still considering my options for an actual blade, so I haven't listed one here yet. Any alternative opinions for anything on my list are always welcome as well.

[Cire Yeldarb]

For $50, I would personally pass on the Constant Current LED Driver and get a Nano Biscotte for $65 instead.

With the driver you get Ramp up/down, static shimmer, optional flash on impact (with added clash sensor); but with the Nano you would get the ramp up/down, shimmer, and flicker on clash (or the choice to add Flash on Clash with a Power Extender - $6), as well as getting 2 sound banks and an Accent LED pad. In my opinion adding sound is more than worth the extra $15 ($21 if you want FoC)

[bosox188]

Thanks for the quick response! Correct me if I'm wrong, but I thought the NB didn't have any current regulation, so I'd need to add in a resistor (waste of power) or cram in a buckpuck somewhere.

I have been thinking about just getting the Petit Crouton and going all-out on sound. Since it's my first saber I've been on the fence about whether to do sound or not, I do have electronics experience so I'm not too concerned about soldering or wiring things up. I'm a bit more concerned about biting off more than I can chew arranging everything inside the hilt.

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

You would need a resistor, in our hobby, it's always a good idea to put a resistor on a LED that isn't being controlled by "the mains" on a card like a PC or CF. Buckpucks and NB's do not go together.

[Cire Yeldarb]

You are correct, the NB does not have current regulation and you would indeed need a resistor to limit the current going to the LED; but it is still able do all the shimmering and flickering effects of the LED Driver.

Since you are not concerned about the wiring aspect, I would say go for sound! For my first saber I went no-sound and was fine with it, but once I made a saber with sound the first saber just didn't hold a candle to it anymore. So much so that I am planning on rewiring the whole thing to add sound later. With any of the "Main Body" pieces, you should not have much difficulty at all fitting all the components inside (at least with a NB, my only experience so far). The chassis parts available make the whole task much simpler than it seems, you just need to account correctly for the length of the components and there you go! Once you start dealing with Shorter "Extensions" and stuff is where it starts becoming more challenging to fit everything inside. At least in my opinion.

[bosox188]

Alright, I decided to go all-out and go with sound. Here's my revised list, think I should have everything covered, but I'd feel good with one last look from someone.

MHSV1 Main Body Hilt Style 2 w/machine recessed 16mm AV switch hole
MHSV1 Blade Holder Style 14
Drill and tap hole 8-32
MHSV1 Pommel Style 10
MHSV1 Choke Style 2 w/ Sun Gold Powder Coating
16mm AV Short Momentary Green Ring Switch
150 ohm 0.25w resistor
Super Lube Synthetic Grease (2)
8-32 Covertec Button Thumbscrew Gold
1-3/16" ID Black O-ring (12)

Petit Crouton
Green/Green/White Cree XP-E2
18 deg Cree Star Lens
Star Thermal Tape Pad
Transwhite Show Blade 1" OD 32 inches long
2W 28mm Bass Speaker
MHS Speaker Mount V5
7.4v Li-ion 1600mAh 14500 Battery Pack
7.4v Li-ion smart charger with 2.1mm plug
Switchcraft 2.1mm Power Jack

3.5mm RICE Port Style 1
USB to RICE cable
SPST Momentary Tactile Switch
Switch 22 mounting hole service
Recharge port hole service, wherever is best in pommel
Chassis Disc style 1 with holes
9" Electronics shield
Several JST Male and Female connectors 24AWG
4.7ohm 10w resistor for FOC to Cree white die

Phew, I think that's everything.

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

PC's use 2 switches. One for activation and one for the aux functions.

[bosox188]

Yeah I have the 16mm AV as my power switch and then I included an SPST momentary tactile switch and extra drill tap for the aux. Thanks for the response though!

[Miraluka]

You don't have a pommel insert or C clip and you'll probably want a kill key for your recharge port.
Also, are you sure you want to put your recharge port in the pommel? If you do, you might want to just use this insert which would take care of your recharge port as well as your RICE port. But since you're going to have a speaker down there, I would use something like this box since you have enough hilt space to use it and you wouldn't have to route wires around your speaker. It would take care of both switches, recharge port and RICE port (with style). That's just my 2 cents, though.

[bosox188]

I did remember to add the insert in before I submitted my order, I'll have to get the kill key separately as I forgot that.

I had planned on just having the RICE port be available when unscrewing the pommel since I don't plan to use it that often. I thought it was typical to put the recharge port somewhere on the side of the pommel and just make a groove in the speaker mount to route the wire. Perhaps if I can add a follow-up note to the order to place it on the hilt before the speaker mount I'll try that. Adding the activation box would have been nice, but not a must-have for me and probably too big of a change to make now. Thanks for the tip.