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Thread: questions about av switches

  1. #1

    Default questions about av switches

    I am replacing all of the electronics of an ultrasaber of mine and I can't seem to find any info on the tendencies of momentary switches. I was not planning on putting in a recharge port/kill key so my question is, if I use an Av momentary switch will the LED in the switch always be lit whenever connected to the battery?
    Sorry and thank you.
    Nick

  2. #2

    Default

    Welcome to the Forums.

    It really would depend on the rest of your electronics, but right now I would say that it likely would, depending on how you wire it.
    TCSS MODERATOR
    All n00bs READ these first (PLEASE)!!!:
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    "Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
    My email: fjk_tcss@yahoo.com

  3. #3

    Default

    Okay thanks so much. Maybe I'll just suck it up and attempt a recharge port as well. I guess the best way to learn is through experience. Thanks again.

  4. #4

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    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...yles-and-types
    Everything you need to know about switches. Basically use a momentary switch with a sound card, use a latching switch with no sound card.
    Don
    Sith Happens

  5. #5

    Default

    Since a momentary switch is for sound cards, the LED in the switch shouldn't be directly connected to the battery. It should be connected to the card.

  6. #6

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    I see that the Av switches have multiple pegs, could I honestly just connect the pegs that are for the actual switch and never connect the led in the switch to the battery? I honestly just like the look of the Av switches vs the guarded, but I feel I'm too much of a noob to attempt a recharge port. Or are all of the pegs used for both switch and led purposes?
    thanks

  7. #7

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    They are separate. mom switches have 4 pins:

    2 pins for the actual switch
    LED +
    LED -

    Totally fine to leave the LED pins alone if you don't want them.

  8. #8

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    Thank you so much. exactly what I needed to know.

  9. #9

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    You don't NEED a recharge port to use the switch LED. In my basic saber with sound builds (pretty much the two-part YouTube videos by Madcow with modifications to utilize a tri-Cree, FoC, and a switch LED), I tapped into the main LED wiring for the switch LED. I just kept the positive tap (the side with the resistors) before the main LED resistor (so the main LED resistors do not effect the switch LED at all) and ensured the switch LED has it's own resistor (a DynaOhm) after the tap.

    For a latching switch/battery setup, you could just wire (in parallel) the switch LED to the same connections where you wire the main LED. As long as you use a resistor for each LED, and as long as the main LED resistor isn't on the switch LED circuit nor the switch LED resistor isn't on the main LED circuit, the switch LED would go on and off the same time the main LED does too.

    You may not want to bother. I think it sounds more complicated then it actually is, but it could be intimidating. Just know it's not an impossibility, and it's available for a future upgrade if desired.

  10. #10

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    With using a momentary AV switch, how would one change the wiring of the AV switch so that the light is only lit when the main LED is on? Likewise, I do not have a recharge port, I have wired the switch according to diagrams and the light is on so long as the battery is in the saber, using a NB v2. Would I be able to tap into the Activation Switch contact from the NB, putting a dynaOhm resistor in line to the (+) of the switch LED, running in parallel with the switch wire?
    Last edited by nicr08; 07-10-2015 at 02:16 PM.

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