Noobie looking to build first Saber

[Taki117]

So, here's what I have so far:

Covertec Clip

Black machined button for Covertec clip

2" Double female threaded connector

MPS Pommel style 3 v1

MPS Clip

Switchcraft 2.1mm Power Jack

MPS Insert style 1

Bezel for illuminated switches (x2)

Gender Changer

Double ended male threaded connector style 1

Hilt Style 5 (7" Fluted double female threaded connector) (With Appropriate Switch Hole)

MHSV1 Blade Holder Style 20

This is doesn't include hole drilling services but I did have a few questions.

What's the best sound board? I'm not entirely sure what I need for Flash on clash and blaster deflect, among other things.

I would like my blade color to be Royal Blue, what LED am I going to need to get the brightest blade?

What kind of Customization options are available for Blade holders? Specifically, While I have the MHSV1 Blade Holder Style 20 on my wishlist, I don't necessarily like the holes, or how they are machined. What I do like is the shape and overall size. Would it be possible to get the Style 20 length (3.5") with the Style 17 look and then just have the needed holes drilled and tapped?

Here is the MHS build for reference.

SaberBuilder_render.jpg

[Miraluka]

If you're asking what is missing from your shopping list, here are some things:

No switches or resistors for illuminated switches.
No battery/battery holder/battery charger.
No hole drilling service for your covertec wheel or blade retention/8/32 drill & tap set.
No Blade/blade materials.
No wire/heat shrink
No blade retention screw.

The "best" soundboard depends on what you want to do with it. Generally, people seem to view the Crystal Focus 7.5 as the best soundboard right now if you want a high end saber.
Your cheaper options for a soundboard would be the Nano Biscotte, which can have FoC but not blaster block / lockup. As far as I know, I think the Spark is the cheapest board that has blaster block, lock up and FoC.

If you want bright Royal blue, you'll probably want a CREE XP-E2 triple Royal Blue, or a triple with 2 Royal Blues and a third color for your FoC/blaster block/lockup, like rB/rB/R or rB/rB/W.

I'm not sure about your blade holder. I don't know if that BH is pre-machined or not, but I've heard from someone else who wanted a custom blade holder, Tim offered to make it for him, but it would require the price of a blank blade holder and the custom work to make it into whatever shape he wanted. That may be an option but it would be more expensive.

[Taki117]

Thanks for the reply. I still have some research to do on a chassis, which is why I haven't picked out a battery/holder yet. I'm not too worried about price if I need to go the custom blade holder route, I was going to wait to order parts until the store finishes moving and even then I might hold off for powder coat options. As far as resistors for the illuminated switches, could I use a buckpuck instead of a resistor?

Also, after doing more research into chassis, is the Petit Crouton Sound Module V3.5 the same as the Crystal Focus 7.5? If so that makes Chassis selection much easier, if not, do you have advice on chassis selection?

Also, here's some additions I made to the wish list, Wire and Heatshrink I already have thanks to be an Electrical Engineer.

12mm Anti Vandal Momentary Blue Ring Switch (x2)

Machine recessed 12mm AV switch hole

Recharge port hole service (Style 1)

Drill & Tap Hole (8-32)

Custom Tri-Cree LED
Royal Blue Cree Die
Royal Blue Cree Die
White Cree Die

Switchcraft 2.1mm Power Jack

Kill plug style 2

I realize I still don't have a battery, but this is intentional mostly because I don't know what kind I would need to power what sound card I get.

[Miraluka]

Well, if you're going to run a buckpuck, keep in mind you'll need a power source >5V. That would narrow down your battery options but even with a buckpuck you need resistors for the switch LEDs. They run at like 20mAh where as the buckpuck is going to push 700-1000mAh which will pop the LEDs.

What do you mean is the PC the same as the CF? like, sizewise?

I wouldn't worry about what battery you need for your soundboard. Your bigger concern would be powering your blade.

[Taki117]

Well, if you're going to run a buckpuck, keep in mind you'll need a power source >5V. That would narrow down your battery options but even with a buckpuck you need resistors for the switch LEDs. They run at like 20mAh where as the buckpuck is going to push 700-1000mAh which will pop the LEDs.

What do you mean is the PC the same as the CF? like, sizewise?

I was under the impression the soundboard took the place of the puck. Also, I meant feature wise, since the PC has all of what I want I will get it. Thanks for clearing up my need for a resistor on the LED switches.

7.4v Li-ion 1050mAh 14650 Battery Pack is what I was looking at for powering the whole kit and kaboodle, I feel like that might be a little much. I also want a AUX button (Which RICE port, and I think that's going to go opposite my AUX button, which will be on the main body of my saber, I think...

With the MHSV1 Blade Holder Style 20 how far down does the blade go? The issue I'm running into is I don't know where to put all my holes. I will have two buttons, Main and AUX, a RICE port, Covertec Wheel, and a Recharge port. I know I want the Covertech wheel to go where it is in the pic on the first post, and I would like both my Main and AUX buttons to be flush with the body, I don't particularly want to put my recharge port in my pommel because that's where my speaker is going to go (What speaker do you recommend for best sound quality?) so I thought about putting it 90 degrees from my wheel with the RICE port opposite my main button then using 10-32 x 3/8" Black Acetal thumb screw as my blade retention screw.

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

You are correct regarding the soundcard and the buckpuck. If you are using any type of soundcard, the backpack is NOT needed.

For the blade holder, they typically go down at least 2".

[Taki117]

For the blade holder, they typically go down at least 2".

Thanks, this means I can't have my activation button on the blade holder, which isn't a big deal, which means I need to shoot Tim an e-mail to see about custom Blade holder pricing. The big question is:

Are the holes on the MHSV1 Blade Holder Style 20 pre-drilled, or if you order that particular blade holder the holes are then drilled? I like both the size and the style of that blade holder, I just don't want all the extra holes. The only reason I don't want Style 17 is that the straight part is too short for my liking.

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

The BH 20 is suppose to be a replica "top end" of a Graflex. Once Tim has reopened, you can ask him about if modding the particular BH is possible.

[darth_chasm]

Take a look at this. http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MH...e-3-P1047.aspx

[Taki117]

Take a look at this. http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MH...e-3-P1047.aspx

Hmm, the only issue with this is that I don't have the tools needed to modify it, hence the need to email. Thank you for the suggestion though. If it can't be modified I will jus have to go to the local hardware store for the knobs I want and just go with it.