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Thread: New here - keen to capture parts for first saber build

  1. #1

    Default New here - keen to capture parts for first saber build

    Asked many questions (some not very well) and gotten many great answers so far.

    Put in my first order for parts (sans the NB2 until it comes back into stock.)
    Last edited by Choos; 06-25-2015 at 03:00 AM. Reason: Got it wrong, now getting it together
    I could be Arca Jeth if only I had his lightsaber, could pull off wearing all orange and wasn't so darned angry

  2. #2

    Default

    To answer a couple of your questions, or at least (hopefully) shed a little light on the situation...

    Nice blade holder. If you purchase a Cree star or Rebel star module, (on the modular wiring system
    page) the thermal pad will already be included and installed. The set screw would work for blade
    retention, and be inconspicuous, I have a thumb screw in my blade holder and like the look of it.

    So many choices for switches. If you're after a clean look, perhaps a short AV switch, with machine
    recessed AV switch hole service.

    These are the converters you're looking for:

    2.5 to 7v momentary to latching converter
    http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Mo...-70v-P928.aspx
    choose this one if you get a 3.7v (single cell Li-ion) battery.

    4.5 to 20 volt converter
    http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Mo...-20V-P929.aspx
    Or get this one if you opt for a 7.4v Li-ion battery pack.

    or for a few $ more, you could get a pre-wired converter
    (just select the one for whichever battery you buy)
    http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MW...rter-P932.aspx

    The pommel, insert, & MPS clip are fine. I didn't see mention of it, but with the covertec, you
    will probably want to get this covertec clip (to hang the saber from your belt)
    http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Co...Clip-P117.aspx

    Do you hear that?
    That is the sound of a thousand terrible things headed this way.

  3. #3

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    Thanks TwinMill the prewired converter sounds like the go for me, thinking the 7.4v Li-ion version, would I also need some sort of battery holder? I understand being in Australia TCSS cannot post the Li-ion batteries to me but hope equivalent are available somewhere here or ebay etc.

    The 16mm Anti Vandal Short Momentary Green Dot Switch looks to be custom designed for me and thank you for the heads up on the Machine recessed 16mm AV switch hole.

    Just saw the Switchcraft 2.1mm Power Jack & Recharge port hole service thinking this could be a nice feature.

    If I requested a Drill & Tap Hole for both the covertech and blade retention screw could I forgo the drill and tap set and the tap handle?

    Anything else I have missed that is essential for making my first saber?
    I could be Arca Jeth if only I had his lightsaber, could pull off wearing all orange and wasn't so darned angry

  4. #4

    Default A few things

    For your colors, Lime green is a fun blade color, just sucks that there aren't lime green switches. Your switch and blade will be noticeably different. It's still cool, just making sure you know. This is a Rebel Lime green blade, you can see the green switch on the pommel.
    Small.jpg
    Still awesome =]

    You can use the set screws for blade retention, but life is so much easier when you don't need a wrench to switch between a blade plug and a blade. Soooo much easier. Even when I don't like the way thumb screws look, I use them because life is that much easier. Just my opinion, though.

    If you're interested in a recharge port, remember you don't have to pay for a recharge port hole service. You could just use MPS insert style 6 instead of style 1. It has a threaded hole in it for you to screw a recharge port into. Be warned though: putting switches or ports into the pommel can be a pain because you can twist your wires when you screw it together.

    Definitely buy helping hands for your soldering iron. I use a set that has a sponge holder, solder stand and magnifying glass built into it. I also like having brass wool. A wet sponge will work for cleaning your soldering iron but the brass makes my life easier.


    The 1/8" heat shrink is good to have if you're forking your wires but for normal stuff, I use 1/16". It's not as bulky. Fits over the wire better.

  5. #5

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    That is beautiful and it has the blade colour I really want, basic idea is to try and make something reminiscent of Arca Jeths lightsaber:iphone backup 1828.jpg

    This is what I came up with so far using the wonderful builder and taking into account I might be able then to add the recharge port in the pommel which would be amazing!Initial Concept SaberBuilder_render.jpg

    Thanks for the tip on the heat shrink and soldering station as well.

    I did some googling and saw 3D printed internal chassis for holding everything together inside which looks like a great idea especially when it comes to adding a sound board, speaker and battery.
    I could be Arca Jeth if only I had his lightsaber, could pull off wearing all orange and wasn't so darned angry

  6. #6

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    Welcome to the Forums.

    If you are going to be "adding on" later, just make sure you will have enough room for everything you might want.
    TCSS MODERATOR
    All n00bs READ these first (PLEASE)!!!:
    1. Forum Guidelines
    2. FJK’s “Down and Dirty” guide to Ohm’s Law

    "Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
    My email: fjk_tcss@yahoo.com

  7. #7

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    Ok kinda back to the drawing board, a friend offered to help me put my saber together complete with sound so been reading up a bit and trying to follow all the info here but love to get a bit more guidance.

    For a lime green Rebel Star the built kit module doesn't specify the forward voltage so I had a look at what I think is the actual Rebel Star LED and see the Lime is rated at 2.75v running at 1000mA. So if I have a 3.7v battery and use the LED Calculator The wizard recommends a 2W or greater 1 ohm resistor. The color code for 1 ohms is brown black gold...

    Trying it again with a Cree Star LED & MHSV1 Heatsink Module no forward voltage supplied I just look up the White Cree XP-E2 CopperNova and find Forward Voltage @1000mA = 3.15v using a 3.7v battery The wizard recommends a 2W or greater 1 ohm resistor. The color code for 1 ohms is brown black gold...

    Did I do this correctly?
    I could be Arca Jeth if only I had his lightsaber, could pull off wearing all orange and wasn't so darned angry

  8. #8

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    your math looks right. I'm getting a little over half an ohm when I do it, but 1 ohm is much safer for the Cree, not so much the Rebel (.95 ohm for the Rebel, good enough). What sound card are you planning on? I would start there because then you might want to customize your Emitter (LEDs) by using a Tri-Cree LED, it's a little more wiring, and a little more work, but worth it in my opinion since you can do FoC, among other things.

  9. #9

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    Looking at the Nano Biscotte 2.

    FOC Sounds amazing but think I will hold fire a bit and look at Tri-Cree and more complex wiring when I finally do my Luke ROTJ (gotta have something to look forward too )

    Still head scratching on how it all fits together!
    I could be Arca Jeth if only I had his lightsaber, could pull off wearing all orange and wasn't so darned angry

  10. #10

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    What do you mean? You're gonna hold off on using the NB? Or you're just gonna hold off on using FoC?

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