FoC Fail w/ Diagram

**Whi-ja** · 04-27-2015, 10:20 AM

Hello! I sure hope there's something simple that I'm just missing.
I've wired these boards before, but this time it's just not working for me.

We all agree that this is the textbook way to wire FoC with a PEx and NBv2:
NBv2 Manual Excerpt.JPG

I'm using:
GGW tri-Cree XPE2
1R2W resistors for the Green LEDs
1.5R2W resistor for the white LED
momentary 12mm AV switch
standard recharge port setup
18650 3.7V (3400mAh) Panasonic battery from TCSS
NBv2
Plecter Power Extender
2W bass speaker from TCSS

So, with this for a wiring diagram, why isn't the white LED activated during a clash, please?!
Wiring Diagram2.JPG

The sound and main LEDs work perfectly, as do the kill key and battery recharge functions.

For troubleshooting, I've tried to isolate all components to guard against component failure:
checked all connections for connectivity
verified battery charge; substituted identical battery
checked the boards for accidental shorts, solder pooling, etc.
replaced the NB board with a second one
replaced the PEx with another one
replaced the LED
removed the recharge port from the circuit
used a stock Light Meat/Dark Meat SD card (with factory config settings)

I watched Madcow's FoC video recently posted to the TCSS channel, but I didn't see anything I hadn't already done.

I'll take some pics of the actual board, but I wire using an unprinted breadboard as a starting point for the chassis, so the connections aren't very clear, although I've traced the wires to ensure I didn't wire in an unintended way.

Here are the config file settings (and yes, I know how sensitive the swing is - this is due to positioning of the board in the hilt.)
//Nano Biscotte
vol=3
drive=1023
fdrive=1023
offd=300
deep=15000
resume=0
lc=305
hs=65
ls=25
i=77
shmrd=210
shmrp=6
shmrr=13
focd=200
focp=10
focr=10
swing=200
clash=150
qon=0
qoff=0

I'll post the pics in a reply; hopefully you'll see something I don't.
Thanks!

**Whi-ja** · 04-27-2015, 10:22 AM

(I apologize for the wiring diagram quality; I threw it together in a hurry and know it's a little convoluted.)

I got the two NBs from the same batch from Plecter, the most recent units produced out there last month.
But I can't imagine I've got two boards with bad FoC connections / components. I figure it's got to be something I've wired, right?

The photos aren't any help. (Here's an example that shows my solder joints, but I did at least verify by inspection that the diagram is a correct representation of the circuit.)
IMG_7979.jpg

**Whi-ja** · 04-27-2015, 10:42 AM

photo.jpg

**Martyn** · 04-27-2015, 10:51 AM

Sorry if I missed it but where is your FoC resistor in the diagram/photo? Also if you're not using the SMD pads on the power extender and have your resistor elsewhere did you bridge the pads or just solder both wires to one side as Madcow's video suggested? Maybe you have and I just can't see it

**DarthMace** · 04-27-2015, 01:33 PM

Yes, Martyn is right. If you use an external resistor, you need to bridge the pads on the PEx, otherwise the circuit is broken. This seems to be your main problem, as the wiring diagram looks good.

**Whi-ja** · 04-27-2015, 01:47 PM

If it was a snake, I'd have been bitten. I moved the resistor to an inline resistor (near the LED) and apparently forgot to bridge the gap.

I knew it had to be something that obvious and absent-minded to confound me that way.
Thank you both! Now I just feel silly. But that's much better than before.

**Forgetful Jedi Knight** · 04-27-2015, 01:59 PM

Usually, if you are going to use an inline resistor, you can just bypass (don't wire up) the (+) sides of the PEx completely.

**Whi-ja** · 04-27-2015, 02:26 PM

Yes, of course you're right, and I knew that. The open gap in the circuit is right there staring me in the face.

I took out the resistor from the PEx to free up some space in the hilt and walked right past the jumper I shd have added...

Apparently I was just completely blinded to my own oversight. Anyway it's good for a laugh.

Thanks again!