Tri-cree r/g/rb + recharge port + AV switch + NBv2.0 + FoC pex (basic saber build)

[apollyonus]

Hello everyone!
This is my first post, and I thought I'd share this with you. I was looking for wiring diagrams, tutorials, anything to get a nice, bright purple saber. The tri-cree seemed optimal for a bright FoC effect, too. I got all the parts together (list is forthcoming) and got to work assembling. Everything went well, mostly. I messed up somewhere, but nothing too serious. Still, it didn't do what it was supposed to. I did get the LEDs to light up, with a nice shade of purple, btw. I knew I'd messed up a linkage somewhere, as the red led turned on with av switch led, as soon as I pulled the kill key. I thought I could assemble the separate diagrams into one cohesive construction as I worked, but I was mistaken. I then set about creating a schematic of sorts that I could follow. Now that I have that, I'll share it with you. But first, here's my parts list.

Panasonic 18650 3.7v Li-Ion battery
switchcraft 2.1mm charging port
Nano Biscotte v2.0
Power Xtender 2.0
16mm AV short momentary switch
Cree tri-xp-e2 r/g/rb
1ohm 2w resistor
18ohm 1/4w resistor

I didn't include a speaker, because it didn't seem worth even more clutter in the real estate to consider something so trivial. What you should know is that I only resisted the red LED, and altered the drive & fdrive values in the config files.
drive=943 (red & blue LEDs)
fdrive=990 (green LED)

Okay, now here's my diagram:

spurple.jpg

Thanks to all of you that have gotten me this far. You have my sincere gratitude. I hope this is useful to all you purple saber fans!

[apollyonus]

And here it is!

This is a pic of the hilt:
20150210_084638.jpg

And the video:
https://youtu.be/ES0ir9Ti51E

[HugeC]

Nice!

[DarthScohin]

That saber is Dope! how'd you fit all that in such a small ID?

[apollyonus]

It was interesting, but not too difficult. I don't have a machine shop, so I just dremeled down the speaker mount: http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MH...kers-P314.aspx The accent ring gave me a bit of help there. From there, the battery fits quite snugly with the two speaker wires running along side it. moving up, the nano biscotte sits beside the switch and recharge port. I used a section of 1.25"id shielding to help protect the http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/9-...bes-P1009.aspx. and of course, the power extender has lots of room in the forward choke. Here's a diagram of the layout. The shape sizes are true to size as I could make them. It's also worth mentioning that before threading the rear choke/pommel assembly onto the switch body, I had pre-twist the wires. What I mean is, I held the two pieces together, and turned them as if I was unscrewing the bottom half before screwing them together. (I pulled the lead off one of my batteries the first time I put it together.
saber topology.jpg
I think it's also worth noting that I did not build this saber to sell it. In other words, if I were a paying customer, and received this wired as it is, I might be a returning customer. That being said, I think the shape is very comfortable for spinning, as well as sparring.

[DarthScohin]

Nice! well built mate!

[JI7]

Im going for a similar build but I'm going to add resistors instead of altering values as you did, I've included a speaker and I am using the Tri-Rebel with green and red for my main blade with blue as FoC. The wiring has got me a bit confused especially around the recharge port and switch so is it ok if I use your diagram here for my build. I mean, is the wiring in the diagram how you actually built yours and if so have you had any problems or anything since?

[apollyonus]

Im going for a similar build but I'm going to add resistors instead of altering values as you did, I've included a speaker and I am using the Tri-Rebel with green and red for my main blade with blue as FoC. The wiring has got me a bit confused especially around the recharge port and switch so is it ok if I use your diagram here for my build. I mean, is the wiring in the diagram how you actually built yours and if so have you had any problems or anything since?

The wiring in my diagram is exactly as I built it. The only problems I had were due to my lame soldering skills. So yes, please use my diagram if it helps you keep it straight. Just make sure you do the math when calculating resistor values. Also, do you mind if I ask why you're going with the tri rebel instead of the tri cree? The reason I ask is because the red die on the tri rebel can only be run at 700mA, whereas the all three dice on the tri cree can be run at 1000mA..

[Zelazny]

I'm doing a purple build and am using your build as a start-off point. I'm curious as to why you are lowering your led power output on the purple setup. Is that so that the purple is better or so that your green foc "pops" more? Also your 1 0hm 2 watt resistor on the red... does it actually make much of a difference? I usually put one of these in line on all my leds on a 3.7v set up just for protection purposes. My build will have a white foc for better pop, so a r-rb-w tri-cree. Just wondering how you came up with your setup. Lowering the max led output for any reason is something I try to avoid, but I do like the color you achieved. Regards and respect, Zelazny

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

When you "color mix" the current that a die gets is a key factor. If you "max out" each die, you get a specific shade of a color. To change it, you need to lower the current to one or the other.