Wiring Check: Nano Biscotte with Accent LED Switch

[Silverwing]

Hello all,

I would appreciate it if you all would look over this diagram for my current project. I am preparing to to assemble.
This is my second saber project.

Project Ambassador wiring diagram_1.jpg

Thanks!

SW

[JediCarpet]

No recharge port?

Other than that, I think you've got it right. For a matter of consolidation, you can run one strand from your negative to the switch, and bridge it from that prong to the - on the switch LED. Two wires would be connecting to the same place anyway.

Also, you may want to consider the 3400 mAh battery...you'll get about another 45-60 minutes run time with it between charges.

[Silverwing]

Ah. I cannot believe i forgot my recharge port! I will make a new diagram. Also, I am using a 3400 mAh battery... I'm not sure why I wrote the other number.

Thanks!

[Silverwing]

Okay. I added the recharge port, and bridged the switch terminals as per JediCarpet's suggestion. (Thanks for that, by the way. I was looking at that line thinking, 'those wires are going to be tricky to solder together...')

Everything look okay?

I suppose I will continue to post here with updates on the project until it is finished.

Thanks

SW


Ambassador Wiring 2_2.jpg

[Silverwing]

Shortly after my post, I had a thought. Would it not be possible, and fairly simple, to upgrade the design to a tri-Cree GGW and use white for the FoC function? (The X-ed out orange lead in my diagram)

Obviously, there would need to be more wires and a separate resistor calculation for the white LED...

Just a thought for the future.

SW

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Shortly after my post, I had a thought. Would it not be possible, and fairly simple, to upgrade the design to a tri-Cree GGW and use white for the FoC function? (The X-ed out orange lead in my diagram)

Obviously, there would need to be more wires and a separate resistor calculation for the white LED...

Just a thought for the future.

SW

Yes, though you would need to wire the greens in parallel (1 resistor for each), as well as a resistor for the white.

[TenFootNine]

Basically I wanted to have the same setup, and I was just about to ask if the wiring works.
Am I correct with my two assumptions?
- The DynaOhm resistor on the MWS 16mm switch is up to the job?
- Also, the red wire with the resistor goes to the ceramic capacitor and the black? Can I simply bridge it with the one of the switch wires?
Any answer appreciated.

[Silver Serpent]

- The DynaOhm resistor on the MWS 16mm switch is up to the job?

Yes, the DynaOhm is designed specifically to do that job.

- Also, the red wire with the resistor goes to the ceramic capacitor and the black? Can I simply bridge it with the one of the switch wires?

Your phrasing is confusing. I don't quite understand what you're asking. Could you draw a diagram?

[TenFootNine]

Trying it without the diagram first.
The Switch itself uses the JST connector with the NB, no problem there.
I would strip the 2nd JST-Connector on the switch, so i can solder the red to the capacitor on the NB and the black to any one of the switch wires.

[Silver Serpent]

You are talking about the "Power Indicator Wiring (off during deep sleep)" method on page 13 of the NB manual?

If so, the red wire goes where you've stated. The black wire needs to go to the switch wire that connects to ground (battery negative). Don't connect it to the switch pad (5th from the top of the board).