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Thread: Thinking of re-designing my saber's internals

  1. #1

    Default Thinking of re-designing my saber's internals

    After some months of using the saber I built using parts purchased here, I'm thinking I might like to change the mounting method for my internals.

    I currently have this speaker / battery holder:
    http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MH...lder-P766.aspx
    with a 14500 Trustfire Li-Ion and a dummy cell to provide the proper 3.7v my NBv2 needs, and a 2w bass speaker for sound.

    I'm thinking I'd like to switch to a v4 speaker holder, 18500 Li-Ion battery module, and maybe the S3 discs (with an all thread rod & some 4-40
    hex nuts to hold it all together).

    In a previous post/thread, I mentioned how my blue ring switch kinda fell apart last time I dis-assembled my saber for repairs (which as it turned
    out the problem was a broken micro SD card). I replaced the switch with a short av switch sourced locally and found it's so short I can't thread
    the nut with even a short bezel. Because of this, my new switch has a couple high spots on the sides of the saber. The only solution I can think
    of is to order a new main body with either a recessed 16mm hole, or a box that can accommodate a super short 16mm switch and a recharge
    port. The only setup I can think of which might work is box 1, with top style 1, although both parts are currently out of stock.

    On the S3 chassis disc description page, it says it will not work with mws NB sound card, but I thought I saw a post on these forums where the
    person made it work by slipping both discs over the side of the card opposite where the MWS plug is mounted.

    I am a little hesitant about starting this upgrade process because 1) my saber seems to work ok the way it is, although with a somewhat short
    run time due to the low capacity but very budget friendly battery, and 2) the cost of the new parts, although it would leave me with a good
    starting point to building a second saber. If I do get the battery upgrade, I know I would need a new charger as the TR-001 (my current one)
    lacks a 2.1mm plug.

    Do you hear that?
    That is the sound of a thousand terrible things headed this way.

  2. #2

    Default

    Opinions... anyone? Have I covered all the bases, or am I overlooking something?

    My new switch looks like this one:
    http://www.amazon.com/Alpinetech-But...al+push+button

  3. #3

    Default

    Have you figured out HOW you are going to secure this chassis within your hilt? If you had a 16mm switch before, the one you got now should still fit.
    TCSS MODERATOR
    All n00bs READ these first (PLEASE)!!!:
    1. Forum Guidelines
    2. FJK’s “Down and Dirty” guide to Ohm’s Law

    "Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
    My email: fjk_tcss@yahoo.com

  4. #4

    Default

    A good question about securing it all. Especially for someone with my level of inexperience. (we all have to start somewhere though, right?)
    Perhaps I could buy speaker mount v5 instead of v4, that would secure the assembled chassis between the pommel and hilt.

    The new switch does fit into the hole of my current hilt, it's just the threaded part is so short, I am unable to mount it with a bezel,
    so the switch cap isn't making contact with the hilt on the sides. Just an aesthetic issue I'm having.

    I've been considering a new hilt so I can either get it drilled with the recessed hole service, or with a box to mount both the switch and
    recharge port I'm sure will be needed as I want to upgrade to either an 18500 or 18650 battery for the longer run time.

    Do you hear that?
    That is the sound of a thousand terrible things headed this way.

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