About to take the plunge...

[HugeC]

Will the problem be getting the switch wires past the speaker mount? With the momentary switch it looks like there should be enough room for the resistor to fit in the pommel if I move the recharge port next to the choke:

saber_internal_with_speaker.jpg

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Will the problem be getting the switch wires past the speaker mount? With the momentary switch it looks like there should be enough room for the resistor to fit in the pommel if I move the recharge port next to the choke:


saber_internal_with_speaker.jpg

That will be one of your problems. A muffled sound will be another. You may want to consider a switch box that will hold both the switch and the recharge port. Also, getting wires past the battery to the LED will be something else to consider. Plus, if you plan it right, the speaker mount will also help secure your sound card and/or battery.

[HugeC]

That will be one of your problems. A muffled sound will be another. You may want to consider a switch box that will hold both the switch and the recharge port. Also, getting wires past the battery to the LED will be something else to consider. Plus, if you plan it right, the speaker mount will also help secure your sound card and/or battery.

Hmm, ok. I would much rather have the switch in the pommel if I can manage it. Would it be possible to just file some grooves in the speaker mount so the switch wires can fit past it? I can always get on my dad's drill press and make some holes in the pommel to let the sound come out.

For the battery, I was thinking of using some 1/4in packing foam and leaving a little gap for the JST extension that goes to the LED to fit past it. If I use this battery, it seems like that should work. If I used one of the combo speaker/battery holders, I'm not sure the recharge port would fit.

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Yes, you can put grooves into the speaker mount, but like I said, the sound will get muffled.

[HugeC]

Oh, ok, the wires will muffle it, gotcha! Hmm. So either I move the switch to a more conventional location, or deal with muffled sound. Argh! I shall meditate upon this wisdom.

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Oh, ok, the wires will muffle it, gotcha! Hmm. So either I move the switch to a more conventional location, or deal with muffled sound. Argh! I shall meditate upon this wisdom.

The wires, AND the switch itself.

[HugeC]

You know, something else occurred to me. In order to get the pommel onto the 5" fluted section, I'd have to screw it on while the switch wires were going through those grooves in the speaker mount. Would that even work? Seems like the wires would get all twisted.

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

It *could* work, though it wouldn't be easy. Now you see why I've made the suggestions that I have.

[HugeC]

OK, I think I am going ahead with my design, and if it doesn't work, FJK can say I told you so! :P I put all the stuff I'm going to order on my wishlist, which is here: http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Vi...shlistId=43422

I'm going to try doing what Jay-gonn Jin did to get the switch wires past the speaker mount. I plan to order the speaker/battery holder combo even though I'm not going to use the battery holder. I figure it will give me a place to mount the NB, and I can tuck all the wires and JSTs into the battery slots. Plus it's one less thing for me to solder (the speaker).

To assemble the thing, first I'd run the switch wires through the speaker holder and connect everything except the recharge port and main LED. Then slide some tubing over the speaker/battery holder/NB and screw the fluted connector over that stuff so it (hopefully) stays still and won't twist the switch wires. Next connect the recharge port wire and run the LED and battery wires through the choke and screw that on. Connect the battery and stuff it into the choke as far as it will go (I plan to use some foam padding and attach something to the battery so I can pull it out again if needed). Finally, connect the main LED, pop it in, and screw on the blade holder. Whaddya think, will that work?

Oh! For the resistor I used this site to calculate what I'd need. 3.7V source, 2.3V for the red-orange LED at 700mA gave me a 2.2 ohm 2+ watt resister, so I went with the 2.2 ohm 5 watt one. Does that sound right?

I think the only things I should have to solder are the LED resistor and the splice to run power to the switch LED. Plus I'll need to drill some speaker holes in the pommel, but maybe I can ask Tim to do that? I'd rather not mess with the drill-press if I can avoid it. :P

I realize my sound is still going to be muffled, but I'd rather live with that than a switch on the handle! Hopefully it will still sound OK.

[HugeC]

Argh, just realized this post should have gone in the Parts List subforum. Doh! If a mod wants to move it, that would be cool.