About to take the plunge...

[HugeC]

Hello all!

A few weeks ago my daughters and I took a class at our gym called "Saberfit" where we got to play around with lightsabers and learn how to use them. Now here I am ordering a saber! I am going to start with a "stunt" saber with the option to upgrade to a sound board later. Before I order $250 worth of stuff, I wanted to run the parts list by you veterans to make sure what I have will work and that I haven't forgotten anything. Without further ado, here's the stuff in my cart!

• MHSV1 Blade Holder Style 24
• MHS choke style 3 Long
• 5" Fluted double female threaded connector
• MPS Pommel style 8
• MPS Insert style 11 (fits AV switch)
• Rebel Star LED & MHSV1 Heatsink Module (red-orange LED)
• MWS Long Latching 16mm AV Switch - Nickel
• 7.4v Li-ion 2600mAh 18650 Battery Pack
• MWS Recharge Port
• MWS BuckPuck (700 mA)
• JST Extension Blue/White 24 AWG
• 7.4V Li-ion smart charger with 2.1mm plug
• 8-32 x 3/8" Set Screw (blade retention screw)
• LED "Corbin style" Battle blade 1" OD (38 inches)
• Recharge port hole service (Style 1)
• Drill & Tap Hole (8-32)

Here are the special instructions for the recharge port: "On the 5" fluted double-female connector, place the recharge port hole in the end of one of the grooves (or as close to the end as possible)."

And for the blade retention screw hole: "On the Style 24 blade holder, place the hole on the largest diameter part, towards the front."

So what do you think? Will that all work to make a stunt saber?

Here is a picture of the planned saber: saber_build_slim.JPG

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

First off, Welcome to the Forums.

Well, my question to you would be where do you plan on putting your switch and the battery pack?

[HugeC]

The switch will go in the pommel, and the battery pack should fit snugly into the choke according to the reviews on the products. It looks like the switch should basically take up the entire pommel on the builder software. Here's a picture: switch_pommel.JPG

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

OK. Good for the short term, as long as you secure the battery pack somehow.

[HugeC]

Hmm, how would you secure the battery pack? Maybe some putty or something to keep it from coming out? O-rings around it to make it fit perfectly snug in the choke?

I figure I should put some padding around the buckpuck too (along with the electrical tape like it says on the product page).

I just realized that if I want to upgrade to the Nano-Biscotte sound card, I'll need a different battery as well. The voltage on the one I picked is OK for a buckpuck but too high for an NB. :/ If they had it in stock I think I might just go for the NB from the get-go.

Thanks for the advice, BTW!

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Yu could always get the 3.7v battery and simply use a resistor, and ditch the buck puck. This way you're halfway there for the next upgrade. The NBs should be back in stock in a few weeks.

[HugeC]

You know, that is a great point! I would need a resistor anyway if I went to the NB. (At least, so it seems from this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YCqUo8Fit3Y)

I should also get a momentary switch and use the momentary-to-latching converter. Or just wait til the NB is back in stock and do that. Patience, must have patience! :P

Also, if I'm going to use sound, I'll need some holes in the body somewhere for the sound to come out... Hmmm. Might need to rethink the hilt a bit.

[Wickedreamz]

Go with sound from the start, trust me lol. If your not comfortable using an NB for your first sound board try looking for a MR board.

For sound venting the pommel already has a hole in the bottom but you will need a pommel insert to protect the speaker

[HugeC]

Well, since I'm putting the AV switch in the pommel, there aren't any speaker holes there, the switch takes up all the room. I guess I could move the switch and get a different pommel insert with holes, but from using a saber in class, I don't like having the switch on the handle, it gets in the way. (Of course, that was a guarded style switch, so maybe a recessed AV switch would not be as bad...)

I was thinking of getting some additional holes drilled into the 5" fluted connector. I was going to have the recharge port there, so if I got 2 or 3 more holes drilled at the same position it would look nice and symmetrical. Then I could mount a speaker using the V4 speaker mount.

Alternatively, I could get some holes drilled into the pommel piece, use a V5 speaker mount, and put the recharge port at the other end, near the choke. Decisions decisions! :P

Thanks for all your suggestions guys! If you have any advice on whether the above ideas are good/bad, I'd sure appreciate it!

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

I think you may need to completely redo your design assuming that it will have sound. Ideally, you will need to look for a new spot for your switch.