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Thread: Ravenwood Saber

  1. #31

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    Quote Originally Posted by Forgetful Jedi Knight View Post
    OK, I'm not a huge fan of trying to run 2 main LEDs off of 1 resistor, but then again, I'm not paying for the LED. Also, the 3.1 is a median value, so if say you used 3.2 in it's place, you may find resistor values that are easier to obtain. The diagram looks good overall, I'm happy to see you are putting a lot of thought into this.
    Thanks. I'm not a huge fan of tying those LEDs together, either; but I figured using the wiring example in the NB user's manual was a good place to start.
    ~Ravenwood

  2. #32

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    Quote Originally Posted by MaraRavenwood View Post
    Thanks. I'm not a huge fan of tying those LEDs together, either; but I figured using the wiring example in the NB user's manual was a good place to start.
    It is. What you would want to do is to put a smaller resistor on EACH (+) going to the LED, after the "Y" split off. Do that, and I think your life will be much easier.
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    "Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
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  3. #33

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    I bought a sound card while they are in stock. Practicing my Jedi meditation while I wait for a white-white-white LED to become available.

    • Nano Biscotte Sound Module V2
    • Power Xtender 2.0
    • Premium 28mm Speaker
    • MHS speaker mount V6 - For 28mm Speakers
    • Panasonic Li-Ion 18650 3.7V 3400mAh PCB Protected Rechargeable Battery
    • 3.7V Li-ion smart charger with 2.1mm plug
    • 18650 Single Cell Holder
    • 9" Electronics shield for 1.25" ID tubes
    • 12 Colored Discs
    • LED "Corbin style" Battle blade 1" OD (36 inches)
    • Variety of wire (24AWG and 26AWG) and heatshrink
    ~Ravenwood

  4. #34

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    Practice your soldering skills, you should.
    TCSS MODERATOR
    All n00bs READ these first (PLEASE)!!!:
    1. Forum Guidelines
    2. FJK’s “Down and Dirty” guide to Ohm’s Law

    "Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
    My email: fjk_tcss@yahoo.com

  5. #35

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    Quote Originally Posted by Forgetful Jedi Knight View Post
    Practice your soldering skills, you should.
    True. I haven't done any soldering since my son was born. That was seven years ago.
    ~Ravenwood

  6. #36

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    Quote Originally Posted by MaraRavenwood View Post
    True. I haven't done any soldering since my son was born. That was seven years ago.
    Yeah, this is almost like music school. Some advice and a LOT of practice.
    TCSS MODERATOR
    All n00bs READ these first (PLEASE)!!!:
    1. Forum Guidelines
    2. FJK’s “Down and Dirty” guide to Ohm’s Law

    "Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
    My email: fjk_tcss@yahoo.com

  7. #37

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    I've changed my design slightly. I'm now looking at a purple blade with the RGB tri-cree LED. As a housekeeping thing, I've also drawn my LEDs running in parallel. See attached picture.

    wiring_diagram4.jpg

    I'm planning on purchasing:
    • Red/Green/Royal Blue Cree XP-E2 CopperNova
    • 18deg Tri-Rebel/Cree Star Lens
    • MHS Heat Sink V3
    • Star thermal tape pad (out of stock)


    The resistors I am planning on buying are as follows:

    Rs - 20mA DynaOhm Variable for white ring LED on AV switch
    Rr - This is for the red LED, and I'm not sure what would make the best purple, so was going to get the 1.2ohm/3W, 1.5ohm/5W, and 2.2ohm/5W and experiment to see which one I like best.
    Rb - 0.47ohm/0.5W for blue LED
    Rg - 0.47ohm/0.5W for green LED

    I'd appreciate some feedback on my resistor selections. My resistor calculations are on my wiring diagram. Thanks!

    Edit: Alternatively, should I leave out the 0.47ohm resistors and set the value for the blue and green LEDs with the drive parameter on the NBv2 as stated in the user's manual on p. 21?
    Last edited by MaraRavenwood; 02-18-2015 at 10:54 AM.
    ~Ravenwood

  8. #38

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    No issues with the wiring diagram that I can see. The 0.47 ohm resistors are fine, and I would use them instead of adjusting the drive parameter personally.

    Experimenting with the red resistor will work fine. You could also pick up a potentiometer and dial in the proper shade of purple, then measure the resistance and get that value resistor.
    We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings.

    http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz for the lazy man's resistor calculator!
    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...e-to-Ohm-s-Law for getting resistor values the right way!

  9. #39

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    Quote Originally Posted by Silver Serpent View Post
    No issues with the wiring diagram that I can see. The 0.47 ohm resistors are fine, and I would use them instead of adjusting the drive parameter personally.

    Experimenting with the red resistor will work fine. You could also pick up a potentiometer and dial in the proper shade of purple, then measure the resistance and get that value resistor.
    Thanks, SS!
    ~Ravenwood

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