I am wondering about this myself because in my hilt the battery is about that far from the heatsink. I'm only using a single die green but I still worry about the heat. I glued a plastic button to the end of the battery so that it can't directly touch the heat sink. One idea I had is if there is any material that could be placed between the battery and heatsink to absorb the heat before it gets to the battery? Is there any material that would block the heat without melting or burning?
A single die LED shouldn't be an issue. However, that is NOT what Starbird is planning on doing.
Also, gluing a plastic button to a heatsink isn't going to accomplish much, aside from maybe making a mess if it melts.
TCSS MODERATOR
All n00bs READ these first (PLEASE)!!!:
1. Forum Guidelines
2. FJK’s “Down and Dirty” guide to Ohm’s Law
"Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
My email: fjk_tcss@yahoo.com
I've been lurking, thinking, and wondering. Back in the day, I was into model rocketry. Could flame resistant recovery wadding like this have an application here as a buffer? The stuff is texturally like toilet paper, flame resistant, and an insulator.
Recovery wadding is partially electrically conductive. I used it in an old electronics experiment back in my grade school days. I'd advise against using it in the saber.
We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings.
http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz for the lazy man's resistor calculator!
http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...e-to-Ohm-s-Law for getting resistor values the right way!
Asbestos is fine, provided you use chrysotile fibers (curly shaped crystals). The amphibole fibers are the ones that cause lung cancer (needle shaped crystals). Sadly, the US government didn't make any distinction between the two when they banned the use of asbestos. It's a marvelous substance, and the proper type is harmless to humans.
Mercury + aluminum is a good way to destroy your hilt, so I'd advise against that. See the following video: http://youtu.be/Z7Ilxsu-JlY
Mother's Magnesium and Aluminum Polish is much better.
As for blocking the heat, one of the best (and cheapest) insulators is air. Secure the parts inside the hilt with some space between them, and it should work out fine.
We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings.
http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz for the lazy man's resistor calculator!
http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...e-to-Ohm-s-Law for getting resistor values the right way!
How bad would it be to have the battery under a switch?(illuminated or non) Or the recharge port?
I can light a small city with my board
TCSS MODERATOR
All n00bs READ these first (PLEASE)!!!:
1. Forum Guidelines
2. FJK’s “Down and Dirty” guide to Ohm’s Law
"Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
My email: fjk_tcss@yahoo.com
Bookmarks