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Thread: Help with parts needed

  1. #11

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    Quote Originally Posted by WookieeGunner View Post
    No, the mAh is how long it will last. Picture a bucket of golf balls, the Voltage is how high the bucket is and the amperage is how fast they are falling out of the bucket. The resistor is to keep the golf balls from cracking no your skull when they hit. The mAh is how big the bucket is.
    I've heard the water pipe explanation before, but never a bucket of golfballs. I like this better!

  2. #12

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    Quote Originally Posted by WookieeGunner View Post
    No, the mAh is how long it will last. Picture a bucket of golf balls, the Voltage is how high the bucket is and the amperage is how fast they are falling out of the bucket. The resistor is to keep the golf balls from cracking no your skull when they hit. The mAh is how big the bucket is.
    Thanks. Very enlightening. Appreciate it. I'm still looking for a suitable charging device. Any help would be appreciated.
    Just a guy with a lightsaber and some questions.

  3. #13

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    The charger you'll need depends on the voltage and capacity of the battery pack you have decided to use. With a high mah rating over 2200mah, I'd suggest looking for a charger that has a charge current of 1000ma or higher. The battery manufacturer should also be able to give you the charging specifications for the battery you select.

    Got a question? Start Here. Have you tried the Thread Index yet? Most questions can be answered there.

  4. #14

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jay-gon Jinn View Post
    The charger you'll need depends on the voltage and capacity of the battery pack you have decided to use. With a high mah rating over 2200mah, I'd suggest looking for a charger that has a charge current of 1000ma or higher. The battery manufacturer should also be able to give you the charging specifications for the battery you select.
    Thanks. Looking at options here in Turkey. Found a few that might do. I'm assuming the actual plug is going to fit. What brands or models do TCSS customers use to recharge their batteries? Just to be safe I would prefer to buy whatever they use and ship it here from the US rather than risk buying something in Turkey that might not fit or work.
    Just a guy with a lightsaber and some questions.

  5. #15

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    many people use the ones sold in the store here: http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Li...rgers-C86.aspx

    Got a question? Start Here. Have you tried the Thread Index yet? Most questions can be answered there.

  6. #16

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    Don't know how I missed that page! Thanks again. Life saver. Order placed.
    Just a guy with a lightsaber and some questions.

  7. #17

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    Sorry, but more help needed. The parts arrived today. A month after I ordered them. But that's the problem with sending parts to the other side of the world. So, my question is this. How do I connect the LED, the resistor, the recharge port, the latching switch (prewired) and the battery? The latching switch as you know has a couple of yellow wires. What are they for? Just point me to the correct link if there is a diagram. Thanks again.
    Just a guy with a lightsaber and some questions.

  8. #18

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    I get the latching switch wires. One set is for the on/off operation while the other is for the LED. This small tutorial on how to wire up a recharge port is invaluable. Was a bit hard to find, but I found it: http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...-hookup/page14 I'm not using a Buck Puck or any driver board, just a basic resistor.

    Do I need a separate power supply for the on/off switch's LED? I brought the prewired one from TCSS. If I can use the 3.7 volt battery pack to power both the LED and the on/off switch's LED, please tell me which wire to connect where.

    Many of the pictures and diagrams on the forums have been deleted by their owners. Most threads seem to deal with pucks or drivers, which are not relevant in my case.

    Can somebody please tell me how to wire up my parts: LED, recharge port, pre-wired latching on/off with LED, resistor, battery pack.
    Just a guy with a lightsaber and some questions.

  9. #19

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    So, I bought a lot of parts but went with the resistor option instead of the more expensive Buck Puck option. Turns out the long latching switch is not exactly compatible with the resistor set-up. An expensive waste of money. What I need is a simple latching switch to fit in the pommel. The illuminated latching switch is a beautiful design and its fits the pommel perfectly. What do you recommend? Is it possible to disconnect the LED from the long latching switch and use it as a basic on/off switch? I'm stuck with an incompatible part. I'd rather not spend even more money on a replacement but if I must please recommend a switch that I can use in the pommel.
    Just a guy with a lightsaber and some questions.

  10. #20

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    Quote Originally Posted by iainm View Post
    So, I bought a lot of parts but went with the resistor option instead of the more expensive Buck Puck option. Turns out the long latching switch is not exactly compatible with the resistor set-up. An expensive waste of money. What I need is a simple latching switch to fit in the pommel. The illuminated latching switch is a beautiful design and its fits the pommel perfectly. What do you recommend? Is it possible to disconnect the LED from the long latching switch and use it as a basic on/off switch? I'm stuck with an incompatible part. I'd rather not spend even more money on a replacement but if I must please recommend a switch that I can use in the pommel.
    A latching switch most certainly is compatible with a resistor stunt setup. You"remove" the LED by simply not wiring it up. It sounds to me like you just don't know how to wire your switch up properly. A good high quality wiring diagram would be helpful so we can see what you are doing.
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