Help wanted - Sourcing Parts in UK/Europe troubles, advice and general pointers

[v1b1n]

The Tri-Rebels, and "Tri's" in general replaced the RGBW's because the Tri's are more "energy efficient" and just as bright.

One thing I am curious about, it seems the old way for flash on clash was rgbw led, dedicate the White for FoC. It seems now however if you use Cex that you can colour blend FoC, is that now done by the cards onboard chip/software or is there still a need for wiring connections to activate FoC or is it all done via software now?

[Silver Serpent]

Still has to be wired properly. The higher end boards can do color mixing with software, so that you can have FoC that isn't just adding another die on top of the main colors.

[v1b1n]

Still has to be wired properly. The higher end boards can do color mixing with software, so that you can have FoC that isn't just adding another die on top of the main colors.

thank you, yes that is what I was asking, I was looking at the differences between wiring of the all the various board manuals from plecter labs and the cf7 was confusing me a little, I assumed it was the case, software controlled but wasn't sure if you needed to bridge connections or the Cex was the trigger and the rest was down to RICE sorry if they dumb questions I am still finding my way to documentation, you have to be quite the detective, am glad I look deeper into the two main forums I have found a lot of info but still have a ways to go.

I see one battery easier to deal with over two batteries but the more you add the greater need for mAh.

I am also trying to understand about the Pex I see cf7 has more built in, I see that single cell is quite the customisation acsent LEDs and pli I am looking at to see how they wire, I am trying to understand best way to manage all the v=r/i stuff in relation to the boards connectors but documentation is thin on the ground the big trade secret otherwise everyone would be doing it lol seems almost like a graduation huh then I truly be Jedi lol

Is there a recommended place for this info?

[Silver Serpent]

I learned a lot from here: http://www.electronics-tutorials.ws/index.html

The PeX operates as an electronic switch. The sound board sends a small signal, and then the PeX lets the full power of the battery pack flow to the FoC LED. The higher end boards have a few PeX built in, as you have read. This eliminates the need to buy them separately. The CeX is a more advanced type of PeX, and it allows for controlling the current output (while the PeX is just on/off).

If you're using the PC or the CF sound board, I don't recommend trying to do the single-cell hack on your first board. If you have a lot of experience soldering small components already, then feel free to do so. If you're a novice solderer, I would plan on using a 7.4v li-ion pack instead. These boards are a LOT smaller than they look in pictures.

[v1b1n]

I learned a lot from here: http://www.electronics-tutorials.ws/index.html

The PeX operates as an electronic switch. The sound board sends a small signal, and then the PeX lets the full power of the battery pack flow to the FoC LED. The higher end boards have a few PeX built in, as you have read. This eliminates the need to buy them separately. The CeX is a more advanced type of PeX, and it allows for controlling the current output (while the PeX is just on/off).

If you're using the PC or the CF sound board, I don't recommend trying to do the single-cell hack on your first board. If you have a lot of experience soldering small components already, then feel free to do so. If you're a novice solderer, I would plan on using a 7.4v li-ion pack instead. These boards are a LOT smaller than they look in pictures.

Thanks, in principle the hack sound handy but scary, I dont like the idea of hacking it fullstop, I imagine its handy for smaller sabers with less bling but why not just use a lesser board?

The newer boards reads to me as the Pex aren't usable (well only work in certain situations, I see in part the newer boards can crudely replace the CEX

I will check out your link thanks, hopefully it helps with the resister/Pex questions I have

Yes I am going a little crazy, all in on the first go, but I am a bit of a perfectionist dot the i's and cross the T's careful planning, lots of practice lots of new untried things, big learning curve and challenge for maximum gain, start of big and work my way back small n then focus on other areas, the finer details mentioning no names but G-Cores are amazing things those whole custom sabers are truly works of art and something to aspire too and stretch ones creativity

[Silver Serpent]

I've seen a lot of people come in here wanting to go big on their first saber. I've seen a few who have succeeded, but not many. If you have patience, an extensive skillset, plenty of tools, and/or a deep wallet, then going big on your first saber *might* work out.

I still recommend going simple on a first saber. They're always upgradeable in the future.

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Yes I am going a little crazy, all in on the first go, but I am a bit of a perfectionist dot the i's and cross the T's careful planning, lots of practice lots of new untried things, big learning curve and challenge for maximum gain, start of big and work my way back small n then focus on other areas, the finer details mentioning no names but G-Cores are amazing things those whole custom sabers are truly works of art and something to aspire too and stretch ones creativity

The difference is Goodman was an excellent sabersmith, who had a lot of good, high end machines at his disposal (as most of the major sabersmiths do), and that partially was what allowed him to create the things he did. Like SS, I have seen many who wanted to "go big" and they didn't make it. It all looks real easy, but the reality is, it is not.

Anyway, it will be interesting to see how this plays all plays out.

[v1b1n]

The difference is Goodman was an excellent sabersmith, who had a lot of good, high end machines at his disposal (as most of the major sabersmiths do), and that partially was what allowed him to create the things he did. Like SS, I have seen many who wanted to "go big" and they didn't make it. It all looks real easy, but the reality is, it is not.

Anyway, it will be interesting to see how this plays all plays out.

Yes he is an artist, most amazing one at that in a league of his own, though at the moment, going big or small is out of my reach unless I went no sound but thats no challenge lol

[v1b1n]

A Quick update, yesterday and today I went through the CF manual again, I also look at the NB and PC manuals which was useful, I picked up more understanding of the relations between things

The biggest one thing which has helped the most to date was to drawing out out the wiring diagram of the CF maxed out
I realise a lot of the wiring doubles up and other things vampire wire onto things

I stopped worrying about all the load and where resistors go, I figure all LEDs require resistors except main diode
FoC doesn't need dedicated die so can be ignored

I have a few questions
Accent LEDs all have their own resistors as do Power LEDs I see where PLI goes etc
I uderstand what things need to be bridged now etc

1) There are two Grounds on the board, do they both function the same, do they have to wire as in manual or can I mix and match between the two?
2) Can I wire the rumble motor to the FoC on top connections so it only runs on FOC, if not how is it wired to FoC,
3) Can the rumble motor be wired to Blade Lock too?
4) The Power indicator LED can this be wired to the power button instead of dedicated LED
5) Does rumble need LED, i assume it shows activation of rumble, I am guessing it needs to be separate to power LED
6) Does PLI need any other circuitry like residter or Pex or is it all built in
7) SMT resisters do not need to be calculated? instead you restrict the LED used? or is that just an example? if 603 are used what does that do from an electrictic point of view? more resistance, less brightness? what would that do? less amps? same voltage? or more of things? "As a space saver PC embeds the footprints for SMT resistors. The footprint is made for 0402 resistors like Farnell reference # 1357998 (22 ohm value provided as an example, user must do the math for the actually used accent LEDs – see below). 0603 resistors will also fit and they are easier to solder"
What affect would wiring SMT Resistors do if no LEDS are wired? will they have no impact as not used? Why were they left off? to lower costs? Do People wire these instead of other resistors?
9) I am guessing it is not viable to use connectors on everything due to space. I see there are a lot of wires in the manual terminating to the same places would be be better to connect 1 wire to the board and branch that one wire many times and use shrink wrap?
10) I am looking at extending a chassis and using acrylic disks rods and fibre optics to make a Crystal Chamber and use like a spacer with male threads either side to fix in the middle of the chassis so the saber can be unscrewed to reveal the chamber but that would need the main LED to be attached to the Chassis and not the Blade Holder else the wires could be twisted off or pinched so fixed would be better. If not that may be machine out part of the forward extension then hide the hole under a shroud
11) MHS If I use extensions instead of main body (more stylish looking) can they me modified to house a button box I want to have R.I.C.E, recharge, Power and Aux all together (Activation box style 13)
12) Can the recharge port be wired to work without Kill key?

I am getting closer to pricing up parts, the Builder is a Nice tool but it does not display all parts, how do I discuss any customisations for holes or machining the MHS parts as the options in store will alert that changes are wanted but not what, do you just order then discuss quote after or do I need to customise myself? I have questions about chassis parts also

[Silver Serpent]

That's a lot of questions. It's early and I haven't had my coffee yet, but here goes on 7 and 8:

SMT/SMD resistors are TINY. The 0402 and 0603 designations are for size. While the 0603 are easier to solder, they're still incredibly small. You'll still need to calculate the resistor value for them. They're not included on the board because there's no way for erv to know which value you're going to need. Some people use red LEDs, others use blue, etc., and each will require a different resistor value. They're great space savers, if your hands are steady enough and your soldering station is up to the task. If you're not using a particular accent LED pad, then there is no point to adding a resistor there. It won't hurt if you do, but it's not necessary.

If you're not comfortable doing SMD soldering on an expensive board, it's fine to bridge the resistor pads and then use a standard in-line resistor instead.