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Thread: My Custom MHS Saber

  1. #11

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    If your referring to my old ones, I wouldn't worry about it. The hilts changed that much that it could become confusing if the threads were brought together, and I have those threads archived for my own reference. When the time comes i'll just bounce off what I had sorted back then.

  2. #12

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    Just to get some clarification.

    If I'm using the C wheel and blade retention screw to hold down the shroud, is it best to have the C wheel machined into the shroud or the main body?
    Just when I see a C wheel on shrouds they don't seem to be threaded through the shroud but just screwed on top of it, but I'm not sure if the C wheels are being used to 'hold' the shrouds in these examples.

    Also would the same go for the momentary switch (in the case that I put it on the shroud), it would have to be machined to sit in the shroud and not the main body to sit best yeah?

    It's hard for me to be certain, there are plenty of tutorials on how to do holes and such, but not many when shrouds come into play.

  3. #13

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    By C-Wheel you mean Covertec wheel? If you have the holes drilled and tapped in the main hilt, all you really need is to have a hole just large enough for the screws to pass through, to get to the drilled and tapped parts of the main hilt. The momentary switch depends on which one we are discussing here.
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  4. #14

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    Sorry I was getting sick of typing covertec this meaning, so yeah C wheel is covertec wheel. The switch I was looking at was 16mm Anti Vandal Short Momentary Blue Ring Switch (and for disclosure this is what I meant to refer to yesterday but had referenced the dot version instead). It's just I'm concerned that if the Covertec wheel is machined to the main body, the shroud going over it might interfere with the wheel working with the covertec clip.

    And when I look at this example here:
    http://i1029.photobucket.com/albums/...judicator1.jpg

    It seems that the covertec wheel and switch are machined to the shroud and not the main body (although I have confirmed this thought by looking at the whole build thread and not that one pic).

  5. #15

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    The Covertec wheel is attached with a simple screw, or in the case of the colored ones, the screw is "built in". The shroud wouldn't get in your way. You may want to look at the pics in the store of what they are and see how they kinda work. No, they aren't "machined in", it looks like they are basically doing what I am telling you to do.
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    "Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
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  6. #16

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    Sorry when I say 'machined in' i'm referring to a generic term that I tend to give screwing or drill and taps, it's a bad habit. I understand what you mean by how they work, I wasn't confused by that it was more in my inexperience I wasn't sure if a shroud would change the normal process. But I won't need to worry about the shroud anyway, as you say it can be screwed to the main body without any problems. So now I can comfortably ask Tim to drill and tap the main body for the wheel.
    Last edited by JMurphy; 06-11-2014 at 05:20 PM.

  7. #17

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    Gotcha. You will be OK, BUT you need to make sure that if you are making the shroud yourself, you need to be careful when you do the holes for the covertec wheel and retention screw.
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    "Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
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  8. #18

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    Because of that importance of getting the holes right, and the fact that I won't be able to afford a drill press, someone will be commissioned for the holes, the rest is all on me

  9. #19

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    Quote Originally Posted by JMurphy View Post
    Because of that importance of getting the holes right, and the fact that I won't be able to afford a drill press, someone will be commissioned for the holes, the rest is all on me
    Carefully measure 2 or 3 times, cut once.
    TCSS MODERATOR
    All n00bs READ these first (PLEASE)!!!:
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    "Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
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  10. #20

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    Quote Originally Posted by Forgetful Jedi Knight View Post
    Carefully measure 2 or 3 times, cut once.
    That's the Rumour *Doc Holiday face*

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