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Thread: First saber, hilt only [HELP!!]

  1. #11

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    I understand. But i need something else to make it change the "hum" sound to the swinging one, or the sound card does it automatically?

    items 12 and 10 are the kill key and the charger. But do i need to "buy" another hole for the activation box (first link you posted) ?

  2. #12

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    Quote Originally Posted by Darth Revan View Post
    I understand. But i need something else to make it change the "hum" sound to the swinging one, or the sound card does it automatically?

    items 12 and 10 are the kill key and the charger. But do i need to "buy" another hole for the activation box (first link you posted) ?
    You can eliminate the AV switch hole and get the Box 9 hole service instead (which includes the 2 holes and the drilling and tapping for the screw.) You will also need to get the screw to attach the box to the hilt.

    The sound card will change sounds automatically depending on what you do. I strongly suggest you download and read the manual that domes wight he sound card. It is in the store. You may also want to get sone extra wire and some extra JST connectors http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/JS...tors-P360.aspx to help make the wiring a little easier for you.
    Last edited by Forgetful Jedi Knight; 06-08-2014 at 06:57 PM.
    TCSS MODERATOR
    All n00bs READ these first (PLEASE)!!!:
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    "Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
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  3. #13

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    I already read parts of the manual. If i don't get the Box 9 hole servico nor the box 9 where could i put the recharge port and how?

  4. #14

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    You would need to figure out the "where" and have Tim drill and tap a hole for it, wherever you decide to put it. A picture of your hilt would be good to help determine a good spot for it. As this is your first hilt, I would recommend you make your install as easy as possible for yourself.
    TCSS MODERATOR
    All n00bs READ these first (PLEASE)!!!:
    1. Forum Guidelines
    2. FJK’s “Down and Dirty” guide to Ohm’s Law

    "Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
    My email: fjk_tcss@yahoo.com

  5. #15

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    I think i will just leave the recharge port inside the saber and when i need to recharge i just remove the pommel. This way I think the saber is more clean and beautifull.

  6. #16

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    I changed my mind. Maybe the rechargeable batteries would be a better option. This way i don't need all those parts for the Li-Ion and i save like $30. And when I need i can just replace batteries (no need to recharge). Is the 2xAA with sound compatible with this sound card?

  7. #17

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    2 alkaline AAs will only be 3.0V which will run your sound card, but will slightly under power your blue LED.
    TCSS MODERATOR
    All n00bs READ these first (PLEASE)!!!:
    1. Forum Guidelines
    2. FJK’s “Down and Dirty” guide to Ohm’s Law

    "Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
    My email: fjk_tcss@yahoo.com

  8. #18

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    Yeah, i just saw on the manual that it says 4XAA batteries. But i think 4xAAA would do to since they have almost the same voltage, am i right?

    EDIT: Would i still need the diode to reduce voltage? ( i believe the diode is for the -0.7V, right?)

  9. #19

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    Quote Originally Posted by Darth Revan View Post
    Yeah, i just saw on the manual that it says 4XAA batteries. But i think 4xAAA would do to since they have almost the same voltage, am i right?

    EDIT: Would i still need the diode to reduce voltage? ( i believe the diode is for the -0.7V, right?)
    The 4 AA refers to NiMH rechargeable batteries, which would be 4.8V as opposed to the 6 Volts regular alkalines would be. IF you use the 2 AA battery holder, you can use one 14500 Li-ion Battery and a dummy cell and the recharge them externally with something like this: http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Tr...rger-P346.aspx
    TCSS MODERATOR
    All n00bs READ these first (PLEASE)!!!:
    1. Forum Guidelines
    2. FJK’s “Down and Dirty” guide to Ohm’s Law

    "Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
    My email: fjk_tcss@yahoo.com

  10. #20

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    Yeah, but i think i prefer just the 4xAAA regular batteries (rechargeable). Wouldn't that do? What about a resistor for that?

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