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Thread: Yet another noob parts list

  1. #1

    Default Yet another noob parts list

    So followed the first time build list and - yeah didn't get everything i needed. So here i sit pommel in hand with no electronics so before i order the rest I'm having a debate on buck puck and resistors.

    i have a bunch of 18650 vtc4s laying around for for ecigs but will not use them in my first saber.
    so here is what Im thinking for first build next build will definitely be reachable and more complex - crawl before you can run right
    so this blade will have no sounds - the question is, is this good resistor wise? not used to working with standard batteries or the buck pucks. or LEDs much but Im wanting to get into building more sabers and actually customizing some mods with leds so kind going hand in hand here with some other work im doing.
    thanks for the help in advance super stocked to get this started and - will post pics when completed - my next one will have some custom engraving i hope if i have time.

    Rebel Star LED & MHS Heatsink Module cyan (already Have) http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Re...dule-P653.aspx
    MWS Long Latching 16mm AV Switch - Black - http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MW...lack-P900.aspx
    2AA Battery Holder with JST connector - http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/2A...ctor-P722.aspx
    MWS BuckPuck 700mah - http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MW...uck--P748.aspx

  2. #2

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    Welcome to the Forums.

    You will be OK, as long as you use 2 14500's which will give you 7.4V which you'll need for the BuckPuck. If you plan to have the AV switch light up, you will need to figure out the resistor for that.
    TCSS MODERATOR
    All n00bs READ these first (PLEASE)!!!:
    1. Forum Guidelines
    2. FJK’s “Down and Dirty” guide to Ohm’s Law

    "Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
    My email: fjk_tcss@yahoo.com

  3. #3

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    hey thanks for the welcome and the quick reply - do i need to look into a different resistor for the av switch or is the one that comes on it not good enough? MWS Long Latching 16mm AV Switch - Black has a resistor wired into it

  4. #4

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    Quote Originally Posted by lostzion View Post
    hey thanks for the welcome and the quick reply - do i need to look into a different resistor for the av switch or is the one that comes on it not good enough? MWS Long Latching 16mm AV Switch - Black has a resistor wired into it
    I missed the DynaOhm in the picture - sorry. That would be fine. You will have to wire it into your setup.
    TCSS MODERATOR
    All n00bs READ these first (PLEASE)!!!:
    1. Forum Guidelines
    2. FJK’s “Down and Dirty” guide to Ohm’s Law

    "Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
    My email: fjk_tcss@yahoo.com

  5. #5

    Default

    awesome thanks ill get this stuff ordered and start my build thanks a million

  6. #6

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    ok So hopefully someone is still watching this sat down wired up for test everything runs good except the led for the switch will not come on, as you can see here 8ABS5i3.jpg using the above parts list and wired up with as jrfth8Y.jpg the wires all done through moduluar wiring system. If i swap the spot for the switch and the accent led both the led and the switches led come on and stay on i believe this is because im bypassing the switch entirely and completing the circuit. I didn't leave it like this for long as i didnt want to hurt anything anyways any ideas would be awesome.

  7. #7

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    As long as the LED in the switch has the resistor on it, having it on with the main LED is fine. Also, the LED has to have the (+) wire go to the LED (+), and same for the (-)'s. That's how it's suppose to work. Once you have both LEDs working, check the switch again, if it works, and the lights go off, you've got it!
    TCSS MODERATOR
    All n00bs READ these first (PLEASE)!!!:
    1. Forum Guidelines
    2. FJK’s “Down and Dirty” guide to Ohm’s Law

    "Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
    My email: fjk_tcss@yahoo.com

  8. #8

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    The LDM basic saber build step by step address isn't working, It loops back to original post.

  9. #9

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by setelf3of5 View Post
    The LDM basic saber build step by step address isn't working, It loops back to original post.
    You just have to go to the beginning of the thread it takes you to.
    TCSS MODERATOR
    All n00bs READ these first (PLEASE)!!!:
    1. Forum Guidelines
    2. FJK’s “Down and Dirty” guide to Ohm’s Law

    "Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
    My email: fjk_tcss@yahoo.com

  10. #10

    Default

    thanks.

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