I need some feedback...any help would be appreciated

[Wickedreamz]

So i got an idea for second saber in my head but I need some input.

I have a MR board and I plan to run it off a AAA 4.8v battery pack w a tri-rebel RRW LED. I want to run the two reds in series and leave the white alone since i cant run FOC with the MR board.

My question is; Is it possible to run the set-up I have in mind? What is forward voltage on the red dies for a RRW led?

I got these numbers from the store if it helps any...Red/Red/White = 90-90-235. I tried putting these numbers into an LED calculator but came up with nothing as far as resistors.

If all else fails i can run a single LED and be done with it, but i thought, why not ask and see what I get back in response

Thanks!

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

First off, if I recall correctly, an MR board only puts out 1A total, which means you are likely only going to run one dice.
The numbers you have listed are the lumen count at a specific current, those ARE NOT the typical Vf's that you would need.
Also "AAA" batteries, don't put out a lot of current, and only do so for a brief period of time, so I believe that whatever you build, the batteries will not last long at all. You may want to seriously reconsider your battery solution.

[Obi1]

BTW, you can do FOC with MR, check out the thread below:

http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...OC-like-effect

If you use ~5V, it could be that you can wire the 2 red dice serial, which reduces the current flowing through, but then you probably have to modify the Output stage, I do not know if by increasing the battery from ~4.5V (3xAA) to 4.8V really comes through to the drivers. You can try out by connecting that battery solution you have and then measuring the open load voltage on the driver(s). If they reach 2x the forwarvoltage of the red die, you are fine. Red dice usually have a forward voltage of ~2-2.5V, so 4.8V might be enough to have 2 in series.

[Wickedreamz]

I think ill just run a single red die and keep things simple lol

Thanks for the input guys and entertaining my idea!

[Dethlore]

Another option you may look into is using the 10440 lithium ions (same size as AAA) to get either higher voltage, or higher current. Using a boost circuit can do wonders if you want to keep battery count down.
with 2 reds at 90 lm (are these the rebel red 620nm at 700mA?) and 1 white at almost 1000 lm, I would imagine it to be a very light pink color... Have you tested the output on a breadboard?

If you don't want FOC, I'm trying something with a 555 timer to pulsate one LED (I have 3 Deep Red rebels 670nm) so that it looks less static. My custom circuit I'm building for that is here --> http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...ustom-Circuits. I know it looks messy.. I'll clean it up and help with diagrams if you want something different.

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Another option you may look into is using the 10440 lithium ions (same size as AAA) to get either higher voltage, or higher current. Using a boost circuit can do wonders if you want to keep battery count down.
with 2 reds at 90mA (what led are you thinking?) and 1 white at almost 1000mA, I would imagine it to be a very light pink color... Have you tested the output on a breadboard?

It might come as a surprise to some, but not everyone (read: 98 percent of new people) here is a whiz with electronics. He is also using a sound card that only puts out a certain amount of current.

[Dethlore]

It might come as a surprise to some, but not everyone (read: 98 percent of new people) here is a whiz with electronics. He is also using a sound card that only puts out a certain amount of current.

Point taken. I don't know a lot about the MR soundboards... but a transistor could bypass the lack of current output from the card and take it from the main power supply. If people are doing their own soldering to LEDs with these soundboards and switches, I think learning what a transistor does and implementing it would be a pretty awesome self rewarding and fairly simple step.

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Point taken. I don't know a lot about the MR soundboards... but a transistor could bypass the lack of current output from the card and take it from the main power supply. If people are doing their own soldering to LEDs with these soundboards and switches, I think learning what a transistor does and implementing it would be a pretty awesome self rewarding and fairly simple step.

I'd be thrilled if they could just get Ohm's Law down... you know what I mean?

Most people come in here with a mindset similar to plug A into B and connect to C, push a button and it works.

[Dethlore]

I'd be thrilled if they could just get Ohm's Law down... you know what I mean?

Most people come in here with a mindset similar to plug A into B and connect to C, push a button and it works.

haha it actually took me experimenting with building a couple simple current drivers with an LM317 to finally REALLY understand what Ohms Law was.
But if they aren't given a chance to dive in, they may never... anyways, just thought I'd give an alternate route.

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

But if they aren't given a chance to dive in, they may never... anyways, just thought I'd give an alternate route.

They get a chance to "dive in", I usually have to push them in though.