Results 1 to 10 of 10

Thread: First Saber, First Part List

  1. #1

    Default First Saber, First Part List

    Hallo everyone,
    As the title said this is gonna be my first saber. I kept things extremely simple. No soundboard (I will buy one later if this try will be a success XD) and pre wired parts.
    Just want to ask you if everything it's okay.
    Note: there are two "Rebel Star LED & MHS Heatsink Modules" one RED and another one BLUE 'cause till I'm a youngling I have to use the blue saber. I will change it later on.
    Here's the list.

    - MHS ribbed extension v-grooved
    - Screw on LED blade holder style 23
    - 3" Fluted double female threaded connector
    - MHS choke style 1 short
    - Machine recessed 16mm AV switch hole

    Electronics:

    - MWS BuckPuck
    - 2 x Rebel Star LED & MHS Heatsink Module (RED & BLUE)
    - Rebel Star LED & MHS Heatsink Module
    - MWS Long Latching 16mm AV Switch - Black
    - MWS Recharge Port
    - 7.4v Li-ion 1050mAh 14650 Battery Pack (I can't ship batteries to my country so I will not buy this from TCSS. Just wanted to know if this is okay and I will search for the same battery here).

    Blade:
    - LED "TCSS style" Battle blade 1" OD (36 inches)
    - 10-32 x 1/4" set screw

    Thank you for your replay.

    Wynner

  2. #2

    Default

    You appear to be missing a pommel, pommel insert, and MPS clip for the end of your saber.

    Another important point: the Rebel Blue LED will require the 1000mA Buckpuck. The Rebel Red will need the 700mA Buckpuck.

    The 7.4v li-ion pack is a good choice. You need a minimum of 5v to run any of the Buckpucks, so the 7.4v li-ion is ideal.

    I don't see anything else missing, but I'm still on my first cup of coffee.
    We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings.

    http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz for the lazy man's resistor calculator!
    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...e-to-Ohm-s-Law for getting resistor values the right way!

  3. #3

    Default

    Good morning then!
    Here's 2:30 pm XD
    Thank you for replay me so early in the morning. I didn't put the pommel cause it's gone out of stock today -.- and i didn't notice that when I made the thread -.-
    Anyway thank you for the suggestion for the buckpuck. At this point I'm gonna take only the blue led and I will buy a red one when I'll buy the soundboard.
    With this configuration I wont need to weld anything isn't it?
    I should only make the hole fore the blade screw and for the recharge port...well...hope so

    Thank you again!

  4. #4

    Default

    Everything should just plug together, no soldering required.

    You can get a pommel insert that has a hole for the recharge port, and avoid needing to drill that hole yourself.
    We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings.

    http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz for the lazy man's resistor calculator!
    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...e-to-Ohm-s-Law for getting resistor values the right way!

  5. #5

  6. #6

    Default

    That one is fine. Insert styles 2, 3, and 13 will also hold a recharge port.
    We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings.

    http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz for the lazy man's resistor calculator!
    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...e-to-Ohm-s-Law for getting resistor values the right way!

  7. #7

    Default

    The "Long Switch" you listed will not work with a recessed switch hole.
    Per the "MWS Long Latching 16mm AV Switch - Black" product description,
    "These will not work in a recessed AV switch hole as they will bottom out in the hilt. You need to use a AV switch box or a AV bezel."
    http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MW...lack-P900.aspx

    You could do away with the "Machine recessed 16mm AV switch hole" and use either, a proper "box" (there are a lot of choices), or this bezel:
    http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Be...ches-P448.aspx
    Or it's cousin:
    http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Ta...ches-P587.aspx

    OR you could keep the flush recessed look, and replace the "MWS Long Latching 16mm AV Switch - Black" with the "MWS Short Momentary 16mm AV Switch - Black"
    http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MW...lack-P912.aspx

  8. #8

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by bigkevin61 View Post
    OR you could keep the flush recessed look, and replace the "MWS Long Latching 16mm AV Switch - Black" with the "MWS Short Momentary 16mm AV Switch - Black"
    http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MW...lack-P912.aspx
    This won't work, unless you use the Pololu board. This is going into a stunt build.
    TCSS MODERATOR
    All n00bs READ these first (PLEASE)!!!:
    1. Forum Guidelines
    2. FJK’s “Down and Dirty” guide to Ohm’s Law

    "Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
    My email: fjk_tcss@yahoo.com

  9. #9

    Default

    First of all thanks to all of you.
    Second: bigkevin61, I love your avatar

    Okay so if I take the bezel which hole should I make them do? (oh god this phrase is horrible XD).

    Another problem is that I figured out that I wont be able to find a battery pack like this in my country, so I have to go with the normal AAA batteries. The question is: How many of them should I put inside the saber? is this enough: http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/2A...ctor-P722.aspx?

    Thank you again for your patience I appreciate it..

  10. #10

    Default

    http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Ma...hole-P557.aspx is the service you want with the bezel.

    If you go with standard alkaline batteries, you will need 4 of them to run your buckpucks properly. You'll want http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/4A...ctor-P723.aspx or http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/4A...ctor-P724.aspx for use with alkalines. I'd recommend going with the AA holder over the AAA holder if you can fit it in your hilt. The runtime on AAA batteries is not very good.
    We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings.

    http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz for the lazy man's resistor calculator!
    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...e-to-Ohm-s-Law for getting resistor values the right way!

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •