Hi guys, about to start my 1st build today, but 1 question has surfaced.

[Sowien]

Hi guys. This will be my 1st build and I'm expecting the parts to drive up any moment now. I've really tried to do my "homework" as to learn as much as I could on my own from forum links and such BUT I've ran into a bit of an quandary..... I've noticed some simple wiring diagrams have the resistor for the main LED tied in past the switch on the + (red) line..... and on other diagrams (and on the TCSS u-tube clip) its tied in on the - (black) line directly between the battery box and main LED. I searched the forum for several for a reason for this but never found one... Before I noticed this, I was just planning on soldering the resistor (1 ohm, 2w) in on the + before the main LED... This will still be correct, wont it ?

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Welcome to the Forums!

Yes, wiring the resistor on the (+) wire before the main LED will work fine.

[Silver Serpent]

FJK is correct. The resistor can go on either the (+) or the (-) wire, and it's best to put it adjacent to the LED. I usually put mine on the (-), but it's just a matter of personal preference.

[Sowien]

Great, sounds good, tyvm

[dgdve]

If your using JST clips put the resistor on the LED side of the clip. Then if at some point you want to swap out the unit for a different color you don't have to do a tear down to recalculate your resistors.

You just build the saber so it pushes full power to the Jst connectors at the top then you build the MHS heat sink unit to plug in and keep its resistors with it (this way you can swap out an RRW unit and its resistors, for a GGW with different resistors down the road..)

AND you wont have to physically open the saber.. Just remove blade holder and swap out units (since they keep the resistors with them on that side of the clip).

I hope this helps

[Sowien]

Cool, sounds like a good idea. I'll remember that on my next build. I originally wanted to go with a BuckPuck on this one but the 4 wire 1000mA were oos at the time of my order. I'm starting to plan for my second build now (Planning on a Dooku version) but since I'm going to add a NB sound board to this one I don't think I'm going to be able to use the 700mA BP because of the minimum BP voltage and the max NB voltage...there's only like a .5v difference unless I'm mistaken. I think your idea would work great for this next build. I wish TCSS offered a 30* offset for the MHS builder heh heh..

[Forgetful Jedi Knight]

Cool, sounds like a good idea. I'll remember that on my next build. I originally wanted to go with a BuckPuck on this one but the 4 wire 1000mA were oos at the time of my order. I'm starting to plan for my second build now (Planning on a Dooku version) but since I'm going to add a NB sound board to this one I don't think I'm going to be able to use the 700mA BP because of the minimum BP voltage and the max NB voltage...there's only like a .5v difference unless I'm mistaken. I think your idea would work great for this next build. I wish TCSS offered a 30* offset for the MHS builder heh heh..

If you are using a NB, you DO NOT use a buck puck with it.