TCSS MODERATOR
All n00bs READ these first (PLEASE)!!!:
1. Forum Guidelines
2. FJK’s “Down and Dirty” guide to Ohm’s Law
"Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
My email: fjk_tcss@yahoo.com
Maybe I missed this but why are you putting the kill key back in (after the board boots) and then pushing the power switch?
The kill key will prevent the board from turning on. You have the switch set to 2 which is momentary so it will not activate the blade after you pull the kill key until you push the button.
What happens if you pull the kill key, allow it to boot (the sound) and then push the button (with the kill key still out)?
MH on FX-Forums
Ok Guys So I had Michael take a look at my Board and he did his magic and also gave me a new memory card and now my Saber is working, what a happy moment when i head that swoosh sound. not to try to push my luck but the main switch that i bough should have a red ring light which doesn't light up for some reason and i have to click the switch 2 to 3 times every time i want to turn the saber on. so
1) I remove the kill switch the sound comes on 2) I push the main button once it goes in, then i push it again and it comes out and then the saber comes alive and turns on. can any one know why that is?
also why doesn't the light come on for the main button
i may have to post the video to show but if any one know what im saying any advice is appreciated
best
Keivan
You have a latching switch, and the settings on your SD card are set to momentary. That would cause problem #1.
Problem 2: Did you wire up the LED for the switch? The LED in the switch is wired separately from the switch mechanism.
We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings.
http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz for the lazy man's resistor calculator!
http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...e-to-Ohm-s-Law for getting resistor values the right way!
perfect i will change it to latching
as for the second issue I think i wired the switch right there were 4 wires that needed to be connected to the board I'm sure two are for the switch itself and the other two must have been for the light
could the first problem cause the second?
k
OK so whats the difference between Latching N.C. and latching N.O. also now my saber sounds with a flicker whats that all about, i feel cursed to have a normal working saber
N.O. means the switch's connection is "normally open" (when button is pushed) and N.C. is "normally closed". I use to use N.C. and made sure the switch setting matched.
TCSS MODERATOR
All n00bs READ these first (PLEASE)!!!:
1. Forum Guidelines
2. FJK’s “Down and Dirty” guide to Ohm’s Law
"Yeah, yeah, I've heard it all before... you want blindingly bright, super loud, running 1138 blinkies off of the cheapest sound card you can find AND you want all of it to run on a battery the size of a dime, and run for a very, VERY long time. That one cracks me up every time..."
My email: fjk_tcss@yahoo.com
ok I got the latching issue fixed, but for some reason the sound comes out in a flicker would you know what the reason might be?
best
K
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